Koukouli Guesthouse

In a leafy mountain village of northwest Greece, a comfortable stone-built guesthouse with a cosy restaurant, ideal for hikers, birders and botanists

This is a side of Greece that most people don't see. In fact, few imagine it exists: a rugged range of forested mountains, snow-covered in winter, bursting with wild flowers in spring and summer, scored by deep gorges and punctuated with charming, stone-built villages whose only traffic is the donkey. And of the dozen or so Zagorohoria (villages of the Zagori), we fell most deeply in love with Koukouli, partly because it is hidden away at the end of a gloriously leafy road (the sense of isolation is profound), and partly because of this guesthouse.

Actually it has changed considerably since we last visited: a newly built house (using local stone and traditional wood-faced interiors) has replaced the old village hostel and is now run by a Greek family from Corfu who come here to escape the summer heat and crowds. Its 8 rooms offer comfy new beds, surprisingly good hot showers, crackling fireplaces, long leafy views, and some pretty touches like hand-painted flourishes on the pastel walls. It's not hugely stylish, nor especially luxurious, but in this environment and at these rates, it's exactly what it should be.

Highs

• The timeless, stone villages of the Zagori, and the paved mulepaths and historic arched bridges which link them, deserve a spot in Unesco's list
• Koukouli is traffic free, and there is barely a road in sight, so the silence is total
• Keen hikers will relish the breathtaking Vikos canyon, one of Europe's deepest, which starts a few miles away (or just gasp at the plunging views from Beloi)
• We also loved plunging into the chilly pools of the Vikakis river-gorge, then drying off on sun-baked pebbles
• Best of all: coming back to iced coffees under Koukouli's age-old plane tree, and hearty stews in their firelit restaurant

Lows

• We have not visited the guesthouse in its latest incarnation, but recent feedback remains good
• There are no shops or public transport to the village, so a hire car is essential (but the bustling town and airport of Ioannina are only 40 minutes away)
• There are only two places to eat, and nothing much to divert you from the serious task of relaxing amid glorious nature
• Some of the rooms are small, and if you want to use the fireplace you have to pay a small supplement
• It can get chilly in spring and autumn, while winter is liable to be snowy