La Palazzetta del Vescovo

An 18th-century retreat built for the bishops of Todi, now an outstandingly welcoming dimora di charme with panoramic views of the Tevere Valley

As the car slips through the electric gates, I can see Stefano waiting in the drive; the dog runs out to greet us and we step inside (cool terracotta floors, sink-into sofas, hand-painted tiles). Paola emerges from the kitchen. Would we like tea, coffee, a glass of wine? I would like to say this is just like visiting friends, but how many of us have friends with infinity pools in immaculate Mediterranean gardens, or views that leave you breathless?

Paola and Stefano Zocchi spent 2 years restoring the ruined “little palace” they bought in 2004. Built in 1763 as a summer residence for the bishops of nearby Todi, it is now a handsome stone villa with olive green shutters at the windows, a wraparound loggia and 9 luxurious rooms. The interiors are traditional and beautifully furnished. Outside, there is a shaded terrace, lawns, olives, roses, and the Umbrian landscape – the Tevere Valley, Perugia, Todi – is stretched out before you. It makes you feel on top of the world, in more ways than one.

Highs

• Warm, hospitable perfectionists, Paola and Stefano are wonderful hosts
• Mesmerising views from the infinity pool
• First-class hotel-standard rooms in a place that feels like home
• Leisurely breakfasts and superb dinners and wines
• Non-alchoholic drinks (mineral water, espresso, tea etc) are included in the room price
• History and culture are literally on the doorstep – the 16th-century Palazzo Altieri is just down the road; the medieval Convent of Santa Maria della Spineta is right next door

Lows

• The intimate atmosphere won't suit everyone
• It's no place for for night-lifers or thrill seekers – the nearest (small) town is 4km away
• Transfers and guided tours are on offer, but you will need to hire a car if you want to be independent