Luxor & The Nile
Why go?
Luxor is immense. Few places on earth reveal so much history
so tightly packed together. This is the epicentre of Pharaonic
Egypt, the most visited tourist destination in the country, a fact
borne out by the growing number of international flights arriving
at its airport. You will gasp your way around town. From the
Temples of Karnak to the Ramesseum, from the Valley of the Kings to
Hatshepsut’s spectacular mortuary, you will wonder at the
size, the scale and the scope of the sublime architecture which
this ancient civilisation begat. Give yourself a minimum of three
full days to see it all. And take it slowly; there is no point
rushing through 3,000 years of history.
Then there’s the Nile. Little you see in Egypt will
beat the beauty of the eternal river and, like so many attractions
in this mind-boggling country, it would be foolish not to partake
in a journey down- or upstream. Follow its banks and find water
buffalo sloshing about in the shallows, egrets following hungrily
behind each plough, camels and donkeys at work on the footpaths,
the odd fox out on patrol. At times the Sahara comes all the way to
its western bank, at others lush palm groves soar into the sky. It
is a majestic river, deserving of every superlative it has ever
received and although the best cruises (which run down to Aswan)
come with a hefty price tag, it is one expenditure you will never
regret. Don’t miss the Temple of Horus at Edfu, all but
perfectly preserved; or the Temple of Isis at Philae, which UNESCO
moved brick by brick to save it from flooding.
Any Downsides?
The sights at Luxor are busy every day and it’s hot work
walking from one to another. To avoid the heat, get up early; to
avoid the crowds, go out in the midday sun. And remember to take a
hat, sun cream and a bottle of water; you’ll need them
all.
The best cruises down the Nile are expensive, but the hotel boats
that speed down to Aswan in 24 hours are not the way to see this
river. You want to have some time with the Nile, you don’t
want to see it flash pass in a blur, so it is one of those
occasions when it is best either to do it the right way or not to
do it at all.
With thanks to Dylan Chandler for use of his photos