Mama Nena

A gorgeous boutique B&B in the heart of Chania's charming old town, with views over the picturesque harbourfront

We were thrilled when we stumbled - not entirely by chance - upon this gorgeous new boutique B&B overlooking Chania's picture-perfect waterfront. You enter from Zambeliou, a pedestrian lane 1 block inland which is lined with taverna tables and Aladdinesque boutiques; and even as you slip through the imposing arched doorway into the diminutive hall, with its natty surveyor's tripod lamp and glistening chandelier, it is clear that immense love and TLC has been lavished on this ancient house.

Wooden stairs lead up to the pretty, dove grey breakfast room, where Matina, Yiorgos or Eleni welcome you with bright eyes, fluent English, delicious homemade fruits glacés and excellent coffee. It is their mother Nena who lived here as a girl, and whose family heirlooms - a mannequin dressform, a battered leather suitcase - lie artfully scattered around. Nena also makes the quince, fig, lemon and pear jams which grace the breakfast table, alongside homemade fennel or cheese pies, creamy yoghurt and honey and other unexpected local delicacies.

The 3 bedrooms exhibit the same refreshing style and attention to detail. One is on the same floor, with French windows over the lovely horseshoe harbour and its buzzing restaurants; the other 2 are higher and larger, both with waterfront views and sofabedded sitting rooms. All are special, stylish and spacious; grab whichever you can.

Highs

• We loved the colourful, funky interiors: high ceilings and thick walls keep them cool, designer fittings doubly so
• You could hardly be better placed: 1 block from the waterfront (restaurants, boat trips), 2 from Chania's excellent little museums, plus all manner of craft shops, clothes stores and music bars round about
• Each room gets harbour views or a private terrace, or both
• Small touches of luxury - free WiFi, flatscreen TV-DVDs, spoiling toiletries and bathrobes
• Excellent value for money

Lows

• There's no lift - don't come with vast, unluggable suitcases
• Despite careful insulation, there's bound to be some noise from the busy pedestrian streets around, especially if you sleep with the windows open (though A/C means you don't have to)
• Availability is likely to become a problem as word spreads
• No twin rooms (but the 2 suites can be made up as twins using the sofabeds)
• It's a small team of 3 siblings: don't expect full round the clock service (though you do get daily cleaning and excellent post breakfast conciergerie)