Mansion Vitraux

A very modern architecture-inspired hotel, plum in the middle of Buenos Aires’ oldest barrio, appealingly crumbling San Telmo

San Telmo remains beautifully preserved, yet this quiet old barrio filled with antique shops, a Sunday flea market and traditional restaurants is being rediscovered as the place to stay within strolling distance of the Casa Rosada and Café Tortoni. Among the 1850s splendour, Mansion Vitraux stands out with its gleaming teak and glass façade. Inside, its 12 luxuriant rooms ‘reflect the eclectic nature of San Telmo itself’, explains the owner. From Louis XV to Bauhaus, the surrounding architecture comes in all styles, and here there’s a room for each of them, designed with huge panache and impeccably equipped.

The striking reception area has a scarlet glass wall and eager staff. The foyer is also a bar with tear-drop lights and mock-croc sofas, where you can order a fine afternoon tea. There’s a small pool and sauna in the basement, and the rooftop pool has stunning views. The house’s original 1898 stained glass roof (from which the hotel derives its name) throws pretty light down the airy glass atrium and onto the seductive little bar, where the sommelier will treat you to a wine tasting at the long marble table: the perfect start to a night on the town.

Highs

• Superb contemporary design excites the senses but offers real comfort, too - and prices are very reasonable
• Welcoming front desk staff are eager to help, and have expert local knowledge
• Great location: atmospheric San Telmo is close to the main sights, yet quiet in the evenings
• Interesting public spaces, with excellent teas and wines on offer in the bar, complimentary wine tasting, and a small spa
• Lovely roof terrace with great views, a heated pool (with a counter current) and contoured loungers

Lows

• Choose your room with care to suit your taste. Some are wildly contemporary
• Two rooms at the front can be noisy (202 and 201), and if you raise the blinds, passers-by will look in!
• Service is variable: during the day, front desk staff can’t do enough to help, but evening staff are more laid-back. Keep checking they’ve ordered your taxi or transfer
• The basement bar space is great when it’s not too busy, but has a hard acoustic and the TV is permanently on, which can be unrelaxing. And it’s hard to attract the sommelier’s attention if he’s in the foyer bar