Molino Rio Alajar

A sylvan, sybaritic, self-catering retreat close to one of Andalucia’s most beautiful mountain villages

Wrapped round by forests of oak and chestnut, reached by the narrowest of lanes flanked by ancient dry-stone walls, there can be few settings as bucolic as this. When I arrived, 2 dogs were lazing in the sun, a gardener was turning soil in the vegetable garden, and a dozen birdsongs punctuated the afternoon stillness. Río Alájar is a true retreat, but without a hint of horsehair shirt.

Your home-from-home will be one of 6 seductively intimate guest cottages which horseshoe around the upper reaches of a broad sweep of garden, looking out to the verdant Alajar valley. The guiding ethos of the Molino is to respect your privacy even though, if the mood takes you, there’s a really gemütlich sitting room and library in the old mill house across the way. The network of footpaths which lead out from here is as beautiful as any in southern Spain, and for stay-at-homes there's a shared pool, a tennis court, table football and even guitar lessons. You'll be pushed to find a better base for a week of rural ramblings or indulgent family R&R.

Highs

• This hidden corner of west Andalucia is beautiful with a capital ‘B’, and Alajar is the prettiest of the Aracena villages
• The Aracena-Aroche Natural Park brims with waymarked footpaths; you can book a week's self-guided walking
• The feel-good factor of the natural surroundings is matched by the cosy and welcoming cottage interiors
• This is one of Andalucia’s culinary highlights; think Jabugo ham, wild mushroom omelettes, thick stews and superb pork
• There's an organic vegetable garden which you’re welcome to plunder for your self-catered meals

Lows

• Arrival is by way of a long, narrow lane, laid down with horses and carts in mind; it seems a bit of an ordeal the first time, but you soon get used to it
• You're in a remote part of Andalucia: don't expect much English to be spoken in the villages
• There's no catering: Peter and Monica can provide a welcome hamper and shopping service, but you'll need to do the cooking (or walk into Alajar for meals)
• Bear in mind there's a minimum stay of 7 nights in peak season (July, August, Christmas, New Year)