Muralla Ziri Boutique Apartments

Colourful self-catering apartments at the heart of the Albaicín, with an in-house hammam (each sleeps 2-5)

The high hill of the Albaicin was amongst the first areas of Granada to be populated: the Berber clan of the Ziris founded the independent Kingdom of Taifa in the 11th-century. The city quickly spread across the Darro river to reach the what is now the Alhambra. Vestiges of the fortified citadel still remain, like the defensive wall preserved within both of the two two-storey houses that make up Muralla Zirí, and give onto a narrow street that cuts through the heart of the Albaicín.

The decoration of these perfectly equipped self-catering apartments reflects the area's past, making extensive use of intricately carved plaster friezes and geometric woodwork: along with these flamboyant flourishes you'll find all that you need to self-cater in style. And after a day of sightseeing you can return to a Turkish bath and massage completing that vision of One Thousand and One Nights. Muralla Ziri is ideally placed for lively bars and restaurants. The friendly Mates family are experts on the local tapas scene, you could do no better than heed their recommendations for eating out.

Highs

• You'll be sleeping in one of Spain's most fascinating quarters which has recently won Unesco World Heritage status
• Muralla Zirí's top apartments have views across the Darro gorge to the Alhambra: the one from the Penthouse is unforgettable
• Just a hop away from the lively Acera del Darro, one of the loveliest areas of the city for alfresco dining
• The kitchenettes are superbly equipped and you really might be tempted to cook for yourself
• Muralla Ziri could be a great choice if you fancied skiing high yet sleeping low: you can be on the slopes within an hour of leaving Granada

Lows

• A few of the colour schemes tread a thin line between jazzy and flashy
• Nearly all the bedrooms are quite small although their limited space has been put to good use
• The apartments at street level, classified as Standard, get far less light and you might hear the passing traffic
• No culinary or beverage essentials included on arrival but the Matés family are happy to do a shop for you with three days notice before arrival
• It seems a bit mean to charge for late arrivals and early departures