Ongava Tented Camp

An intimate and alluringly authentic bush camp in a remote corner of the vast Ongava Reserve, 5 hours north of Windhoek

The setting is one of rare beauty: a remote valley close to Etosha's southern border at the foot of the Ondundozonanandana mountains (don't worry, just ask for 'Ongava Tented Camp'!). Arriving here we felt as if we'd been dropped straight into the pages of a Hemingway novel: birds of every hue flitted amongst the greenery, zebra and water buck were grazing beside a water hole whilst a porcupine was lazily drinking its fill: a quintessential vision of Africa, crystallised, it seemed, before our eyes.

The low stone walls, high thatch roof and heavy wooden furniture of the lodge feels utterly 'bush', as do the 9 Meru-style tents, which arc around one of Ongava Reserve's most frequented watering holes. And so too did the 'One Tribe' philosophy of the camp where guests eat together at one table in the company of their guides and camp managers. It's fun, intimate and, best of all, you're guaranteed plenty of animal action.

Highs

• The tented accommodation is as good as we've come across in southern Africa
• You may see as much game close to the camp as you will on your excursions into Etosha
• It all feels a long way from home and the design of the lodge and tents really gets you close to the spirit of the African bush
• The Tented Camp specialises in game walks with armed guides: there are few wildlife experiences that can compare with the thrill of tracking rhino on foot
• The opportunity to do night drives and see lion, black rhino and striped polecats by torchlight

Lows

• If you're staying during the Rainy Season, expect a long and bumpy arrival
• Be prepared to eat meals at one table with your fellow guests and the camp guides
• It takes the best part of an hour to drive from the camp to Etosha so book full rather than half-day excursions if possible