Pacuare Lodge

An idyllic riverside jungle lodge, hidden in the depths of the rainforest and reachable only by raft

As your raft enters the rapids, there’s no time to panic: your guide is commanding you to "Paddle forward!" and suddenly there’s an exhilarating rush as the raft is borne up on an unseen wave and sent spinning down into a whirlpool eddy, sending your heart racing, before you emerge effortlessly onto the smooth river again, floating calmly between tall trees and hanging creepers. Exotic birds dart all around you. Then you arrive: secluded in this paradise setting, Pacuare Lodge sits on a bend in the river amid gorgeous gardens filled with tropical flowers. Each of its beautifully designed cabins has luxurious bathrooms, beds draped with mosquito nets, and is lit only by candles at night.

Walk along a winding path to the tall open-sided palenque and sip caipirinhas before dinner – surprisingly sophisticated cuisine served under the moon, next to the murmur of the river. Awake to birds calling all around you, monkeys swinging in the trees and hummingbirds flitting in the flowers outside your window. Pacuare will be the highlight of your trip to Costa Rica.

Highs

• Unique chance to be isolated in the rainforest, immersed in nature but with fine wines and excellent food
• Palm-thatched wooden cabins are rustic but pretty luxurious and each has a 360º rainforest view. Worth paying extra for huge River View Suites and Linda Vista Suites
• The staff. Everyone seems to love welcoming you to Pacuare, creating a warm and uplifting atmosphere
• Rafting. It might sound alarming but it feels amazing. Those who don’t fancy it, and children under 12, can be brought by jeep and a basket across the river!
• Amazing activities, such as the hike to visit the Cabecar indigenous community and their Curandero (medicine man)
• Pacuare is carbon neutral

Lows

• Pricey, but a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and all meals and local transportation are included
• No phone, no internet, no TV. That’s the whole point
• Rafting might prove too much for older guests, or those who like to enjoy nature free of adrenaline rushes. Consider the jeep plus river crossing in a basket option
• No electricity, so no air con, and there’s the possibility that bugs will get in, though your cabin windows are mosquito screened. Be prepared and you’ll love it