Patagonia
Top Tips
Some of the exhilarating activities on offer in Patagonia...
back to topRiversports on the Futaleufu
The turquoise Futaleufu river is renowned for its whitewater rapids and other outdoor activities. Every December to April, the charming village of Futaleufu becomes a base for paddlers looking to descend some of the wildest waters on the planet, or explore the gentler River Espolon. Former American Olympic kayaker Chris Spelius runs excellent kayak and rafting trips, as well as other adrenaline-pumping activities, from a remote river camp or his wooden lodge in the village. There's also world-class fly-fishing on the Futaleufu and Yelcho rivers, with large native populations of brown and rainbow trout. A unique cottage hideaway offers excellent fishing on its doorstep, together with stunning views and the ultimate escape.
back to topThe Camino Austral
Offering one of South America's great overland trips, this singular
road winds south over 1,000km from Puerto Montt to the obscure port
of Yungay beyond Cohyaique. Due in part to its lack of paving, it
remains very underused but has served to open up the area for more
adventurous tourists willing to ‘rough it’ for the sake
of unadulterated natural beauty. This sparsely populated area,
which is one of Chile's wildest, is characterised by occasional
hamlets, ancient forests, rugged snow-capped peaks, rushing rivers
of every shade of blue and green imaginable, and countless
waterfalls. Throw in 2 vast ice fields, Lago General Carrera
(undoubtedly one of the most beautiful lakes in the world,
especially when viewed from the high road to the border town of
Chile Chico) and golden pampas, and all in all this is a pretty
special journey.
For Patagonian-style pampering along the way, stop at one of
Chile's best spa hotels, set in dense forest on the shore
of a fjord.
Tips:
The road is mainly gravel and dirt, so a 4WD is recommended.
Driving times are long, not because of distances but because of the
road conditions. Several agencies in Puerto Montt and Coyhaique
offer expensive one-way rentals. Intrepid cyclists should be
prepared for wind and rain, so bring a sturdy mountain bike, a
strong tent and expertise in bike repairs - local services are thin
on the ground.
If starting overland in the northern stretch from Puerto Montt, the
road is interrupted by fjords, making 2 car ferry crossings with
Transmarchilay necessary (and only
possible Jan-Feb). Alternatively, start 200km further south in
Chaitén, from where the road heading south is continuous.
Sailing the fjords of Southern Chile
South of Puerto Montt the land becomes so fragmented that
travelling by boat is not only the most practical means of
transport, but also the most spectacular, passing fjords, glaciers
and untouched islands, though weather conditions can often be
foggy. There are 2 fantastic journeys - a 3-night/4-day trip
between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales (ideal for those visiting
Torres del Paine, as you can take the boat there and fly back from
Punta Arenas or vice versa), and a 1- to 6-day voyage starting from
Puerto Montt or Puerto Chacabuco and sailing to Laguna San Rafael.
The laguna is part of a huge glacier-filled park located 200km
south of Puerto Chacabuco, which encompasses some of the most
awesome fjord and mountain scenery in the world. If you're not
planning to go to Torres del Paine, Laguna San Rafael and its
floating icebergs are must-sees, accessible only by boat or
air.
Navimag operates modest passenger and
cargo ferries on both routes. Skorpios
operates a more deluxe 6-night round-trip cruise to the San Rafael
glacier from Puerto Montt and a 3-night trip from Puerto Chacabuco.
Book well ahead. Transmarchilay
also runs a relatively cheap passenger and cargo ferry from Puerto
Montt to Puerto Chacabuco (taking 24 hours), from where you can
take a day boat trip to see the San Rafael glacier.
back to topTorres del Paine National Park
Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful, unspoilt and unique
places on earth, the famed Torres del Paine National Park lies in
the continent's southernmost reaches. Its magnificent granite
towers (the Torres) and horn-shaped Cuernos (horns) are surrounded
by lagoons of all colours from deep turquoise to indigo, and laced
with hiking trails which have made Torres del Paine a trekking
Mecca. There are also glaciers (the vast Grey Glacier is
particularly stunning), waterfalls and wildlife of all kinds, which
you can enjoy from boat or car. It’s a long journey to get
there, but the rewards far outweigh the effort. This is one of the
most iconic places on Earth, and undoubtedly worth the trip.
Where to stay has become much easier. It used to be that you
carried your pack and camped, stayed in a simple mountain refuge,
or lodged at one of the rather overpriced hostels in the park. In
recent years, the construction of a fast road from Puerto Natales
to the park’s southern entrance has prompted some marvellous
new hotels to open up. Indigo and Remota are
both in Puerto Natales but organise excellent trips into the park
to hike or kayak. Just to the south of the park entrance at
Río Serrano, Patagonia Camp offers luxurious yurts
in a magical setting. For camping in comfort right inside the park,
try EcoCamp. And for a taste of traditional estancia life
on a working sheep farm head to Estancia Cerro Guido,
which has views of the famous Torres from its dining room and
arranges horse riding on the steppe.
An extensive and well-marked network of trails offers a range of
amazing hikes, from a couple of hours to several days. The most
popular are the demanding El Circuito (5-6 days; 100km) and The W
(4-5 days; 76km), both of which start at the main park entrance by
Laguna Amarga and lead hikers around the Paine Massif. Highlights
include the soaring granite towers that give the park its name and
are tinged pink at sunrise, shimmering lakes, glaciers, icebergs,
dense forest, tumbling waterfalls and abundant wildlife. Hikers are
likely to see llama-like guanacos, flamingos, condors and
flightless rheas, but the treks are arduous and you need to be in
good shape before embarking on them.
Tips:
The weather can change abruptly from sunshine to snowstorms and
ferocious gusts of wind. Enjoying your trip means being prepared:
lots of layers, good walking boots, fleeces, full waterproofs and
both a sun hat and a warm waterproof hat. The ozone layer is
thinner here, so you’ll need high-factor sun cream. Note that
all trails are very busy in January and February, and the campsites
full to bursting. Better to go in March, April or November.