Peloponnese
Why go?
The three-pronged ‘island of Pelops’, the mythical
chariot-racing king, was not an island until the 1890’s, when
the narrow isthmus at Corinth was finally severed by a shipping
canal. Most people still consider it part of the mainland. But it
is culturally and scenically very distinct – and very
rich.
It boasts a spectacular concentration of ancient sites, including
royal Mycenae (home of Agamemnon, Clytemnestra et al), therapeutic
Epidavros (whose wonderfully preserved theatre still hosts
classical tragedies) and athletic Olympia (where the Olympic games
were founded). Less known but equally fascinating are the many
Byzantine cities, churches and fortresses, including the hilltown
of Mystras and the sea-rock of Monemvasia, where time has
apparently stood still since the Crusaders left. The rugged Mani
peninsula, central of the three ‘fingers’, positively
bristles with towers, castles and frescoed chapels built in
defiance of the Turks - and various other passing enemies - during
the Ottoman era. If you fancy something more civilised, check out
the elegant seaside town of Nafplion, with its narrow alleys, tiled
houses, twin castles and frequent festivals - it's a perfect base
for the sites of the Argolid peninsula (the 'thumb').
The Peloponnese also has its fair share of natural wonders. The
southerly mountain range of Taygetus offers breathtaking gorges,
spring flowers, jagged 8000-foot peaks and well-maintained
mulepaths to link them. Kardamyli is a perfect base for exploring
its foothills. Some of Greece’s finest beaches can be found
on the western finger around Pilos, or along the pine-shaded sands
that line the west coast. The northerly ranges around Kalavrita
conceal historic monasteries, fir forests, lakes and a jaw-dropping
rack-and-pinion railway route. This is the ancient Greeks’
Arcadia, and you can see why.
So if you're after one part of Greece with a bit of everything,
this is the place. But be warned: you’ll need plenty of time
- even 2 weeks will only scratch the surface. i-escape's editor
Michael Cullen has been coming for 20 years, including a stint of 6
months writing a guidebook here, but still returns every year for
more.