Relais Il Falconiere

Exquisite country villa with haute cuisine in the old 'limonaia', elegant gardens and pools basking under the Tuscan sun

Remember that dreamy land of sun-dappled verandas, flower-scented gardens and antique-furnished bedrooms which Frances Mayes described in Under the Tuscan Sun? Well, I’ve found it. And, do you know, it’s exactly where she said it was: just outside Cortona, in southeast Tuscany.

The only differences are that it’s about a mile north of the house she described (her own), and that, unlike her house guests, you have to pay (but not that much, all things considered). For Il Falconiere is one of those magical country hotels that oozes Tuscan style. Originally an olive, wine and fruit-producing estate, its 300-year-old buildings and gardens have been restored to accommodate 19 elegant bedrooms, several drawing rooms, a private chapel, 2 swimming pools, and a vaulted restaurant in the old limonaia. There are glorious views over the Val di Chiana, and an atmosphere of total serenity. Don’t be put off by the prefix: although it is a member of the Relais & Chateaux group, it feels determinedly family-run, friendly and Italian.

Highs

• Peaceful setting just outside Cortona
• Elaborate French-style haute cuisine with Tuscan ingredients
• Beautiful, immaculately-kept grounds
• Impeccable, almost embarrassingly courteous service
• Cooking classes, wine-tasting, horse-riding

Lows

• Some rooms in the main building are small
• Others are in an annex 300 yards away (see Rooms, or check when Booking)
• Décor is a little too flowery for some tastes
• Meals are a multi-course, gloved-waitered affair – not for those seeking a simple Tuscan pranzo