Ti Kaye

A well-run, friendly resort of 33 sea-facing cottages, set on a lush hillside above a remote, sandy beach with great diving

Beautiful as it is, St. Lucia is becoming increasingly popular, with more direct flights and cruise ships every year. If you want to escape to a remote beachside, and are put off by the rates and glamour of the Hilton and Anse Chastenet, head for the fishing village of Anse la Raye midway between Soufriere and Castries. Down a bumpy track, tucked above the remote sandy beach of Anse Cochon, is the secluded resort of Ti Kaye.

It’s definitely a resort rather than a guesthouse or plantation hotel, but it’s small (33 cottages) and refreshingly personal. Ti Kaye means 'little house' in Creole, and this applies both to the accommodation - private bungalows spread over the wooded hillside - and to the ambiance, which is intimate and familiar. You don’t need to go on any of their excursions (though they are well-organised and priced), nor eat any meals there if you don’t want to (though we found the food excellent). The guests are a mix of ages and backgrounds, predominantly north American, and the staff genuinely friendly. We came feeling unsure, and left as converts.

Highs

• Tasteful, secluded, sea-facing bungalows with hammocks and outdoor showers
• A wide range of excursions, including diving to local wrecks and walls, rainforest hikes and boat trips
• Friendly staff generate a lazy, indulgent mood around the pool and bar
• Fantastic sunsets, accompanied by happy hour cocktails
• Reasonably priced by Caribbean standards

Lows

• It’s a long and bumpy approach, although the track has been improved since our visit
• The cottages are simple, but tastefully so (and they have recently added mod cons such as iPods and a/c)
• The ambiance is very couply - not ideal for solo travellers or families - though happy hour can get quite sociable
• The beach is gorgeous but you need to walk down a lot of steps to get to it (and there are some day trippers in high season)