Casa Colvale

A contemporary, exclusive retreat on the backwaters of the Chapora river in North Goa, ideal for sophisticated Bond-style chilling

After landing at Goa airport, shaken and stirred from a 10-hour flight, a private speedboat whisks you through the hidden backwaters, mooring 50 minutes later at the jetty of a cool contemporary residence, where staff greet you with a freshly chilled lime soda. Welcome to Casa Colvale, Mr. Bond. Billed as Goa's first boutique backwater hotel, it was originally conceived as a private home for Casa Group owner Sheila Dhody, but so many friends and Bollywood stars asked to stay that it was transformed, de facto, into a hotel.

Tucked away down the unspoilt backwaters of North Goa, the architect-designed property sits on a high bank in the midst of lush tropical gardens and jungle, with sweeping views down the river and its tributaries. Enjoy lazy days by the infinity pools, watch water buffalo on their daily river crossing from the terrace, or kick back in one of the idyllic garden chill-out spots for some sophisticated unwinding. The legendary beaches of North Goa are only 15 minutes by speedboat or car, so you can choose the style and pace of your holiday.

Highs

• The views over the River Chapora are breathtaking, particularly from the higher of the 2 pools
• The stylish, spacious rooms have glass frontage and private sit-outs
• Fabulous home-cooked buffets are served riverside under the stars
• You'll find total peace and quiet - great for reading, writing, contemplating or meditating
• The obliging staff look after every whim, from picnics and sundowners to parties

Lows

• Recent reports have indicated that the hotel is under new management and can be a little disorganised, with a few maintenance problems
• The grounds have very steep inclines and drops with lots of steps, so it's not ideal for children (or for the faint-hearted!)
• When we visited, service was slow
• The speedboat sometimes gets booked up
• There are no twin rooms (only doubles)