Villa Fol Avril

Discover an unlikely hotel de charme in a untouched rural corner of Normandy, less than 2 hours from Paris

Villa Fol Avril is full of surprises. Bang on the crossroads of a sleepy village, it looks at first glance like any old relais de poste (coaching inn) - which is what it used to be. But now behind its ochre exterior lies one of Normandy’s most stylish little hotels, whose clean lines and sumptuous fabrics entice you to linger for days. It’s the handiwork of dynamic owners Sandrine and Philippe, who have taken the building’s natural charms (oak beams, old stables) and infused them with contemporary verve and funky furnishings - most of which they have taken great pains to source locally.

The other surprise is the area. Few, even among the French, have heard of the Perche, a historic province tucked away in Normandy's southeastern corner. Yet its historic stone villages and rolling hills, similar to an ungentrified Cotswolds, are one of the region's best kept secrets. It's also famous for its huge white horses. Riding is Sandrine's passion, and the hotel's bizarre name is borrowed from her favourite Arab pure-bred stallion.

Highs

• Villa Fol Avril's firelit salon, locally crafted furnishings and personal service make this the complete antithesis of a chain hotel
• The region, much of it a Natural Park, is great for history-lovers, foodies and walkers alike, with its Percheron horses, venerable manoirs, honey-stoned villages and birdlife
• The dining room and sunny terrace offers tasty and affordable food, with an informal atmosphere that’s more bistrot-chic than grand restaurant
• A brand new decked swimming pool for cooling off in the summer months
• Excellent value, especially for single travellers, who for once get a discounted room rate

Lows

• Two sides of the hotel are on the road – but it’s the quietest place on earth, and if a car passes more than once an hour in the night, that’s busy
• Be prepared to dust off your French - English is not widely spoken round here, although Sandrine and Philippe are exceptions
• This is one of Normandy's remotest corners - not the quickest place to reach from Channel ports, though it is close to Paris and Chartres
• Two new rooms and a pool are being built ready for April 2008 so the hotel is closed January and February 2008