Fond Doux translates from local patois as 'sweet valley', and this 250-year-old plantation certainly lives up to its name. Still producing cocoa, it's one of oldest working plantations in the Caribbean and its dense tropical gardens of trees, fruits and flowers provide glorious scents, sights and sounds year round. It's an ideal spot if you are after a more authentic experience of St Lucia, indeed, it's a different (and more affordable) world from the slick hotel resorts that line the coast.
Local owners Eroline and Lyton Lamontagne spent 10 years restoring the derelict historic site into the restorative haven you see today. They relocated a few 1 and 2-bedroom colonial-era cottages from Castries, built others on the hillsides above the stream, added an attractive triple cascading swimming pool, and generally refurbished with preservation and biodiversity in mind. With only a handful of cottages set apart in 135 acres of lush grounds, and walking trails up to a magnificent Petit Piton view, it’s great for having a lot of space and being immersed in nature. The restaurant features farm-to-table fare; much of the food on your plate is grown on property. There's a chocolate tour, complimentary yoga three times a week, and it makes a good base to do beaches, rainforests and the drive-through volcano – which is just down the road. Perhaps first impressions are that it needs a lick of paint, but it’s all part of the plantation charm – and you'll be seduced by the peace and natural beauty in no time.
Highs
- Well-located near the World Heritage site of the Pitons, and the Sulphur Springs; Soufriere is worth a visit too
- The restorative views, generous private decks and hammocks are ideal for soothing away a tiring journey
- The expansive colourful gardens with cottages separately sited from each other gives a great sense of space
- A bird-watcher’s and horticulturalist's paradise at any time of year
- Eco and sustainability measures in place include locally sourced staff and food, composting, no single use plastics
Lows
- It might be too rustic for some – the odd tile is missing, and some fixtures and fittings need a bit of an upgrade (the ongoing maintenance programme had yet to reach our bathroom)
- The journey here involves continuous hair-pin bends – it's worth it for the views, but you may feel queasy
- No other restaurants within walking distance
- A lively and varied selection of music is played at the bar and restaurant; we liked the vibe, if you don't there's a beautiful estate to lose yourself in
Best time to go
Our top tips
Pack walking shoes if you want to tackle the trails. Our epic trek up Gros Piton was a highlight: you are accompanied by a local guide to ascend 600m a volcanic boulder-strewn steep path, to be rewarded with panoramic views to the south and west. On a clear day you can see four other islands. Bring 1.5 litres of water per person. Note that we found the downhill journey harder! And pack mozzie repellent for the evenings.
- Boutique Hotel
- 17 rooms
- Restaurants and bar (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Gazebo
Rooms
The plantation-style cottages are scattered across the sweet valley: some perched on the lush hillsides to one side of the restaurant and reception area; the rest to the other. All are airy and surrounded by foliage, with polished wooden floors, handmade four-poster beds, bamboo lights, wooden shutters, and private decks with hammocks and chairs. There's air-conditioning for the hotter days, but ceiling fans and the breeze caught by the estate's lofty position often suffice.
Bathrooms are showers only, and have clay basins, handmade soaps and seasonal fresh flowers from the plantation.
While there are a couple of courtyard suites just off the restaurant terrace, we thought the cottages immersed within the gorgeous gardens were the ones to go for. Of the 1-Bedroom Cottages, those on the tranquil forested hillside come with private plunge pools, terraces and wonderful views across the valley. Of these our favourites were colourful Hilltop Coconut and Hilltop Guava. All are accessed by several steps, so book a cottage on the flat if mobility is an issue. On the lower levels, Cinnamon is popular amongst honeymooners, we liked the look of Bamboo with its white louvered windows and pretty patterned bedspread, and secluded Tree House, hidden in the greenery.
Of the 2-Bedroom Cottages, each of which has a kitchenette, Avocado – where we stayed – is the most private, located at the end of a long path; pleasingly both bedrooms are ensuite.
Deluxe 2-Bedroom Cottage Angelina is a 2-storey, 170-year-old colonial house, rescued from demolition by the St Lucian owners who moved and reassembled it at Fond Doux, thus becoming the inspiration for the whole resort. It offers generous amounts of space and an extensive private garden – great for families.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots available
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- Minibar
- Radio
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
Meals are taken in Five Fingers Restaurant, an open-sided bamboo construction with a covered area, and an expansive outdoor terrace flanked by the bar facing the tropical gardens. The menu features Creole cuisine; most fruit, herbs and vegetables are harvested on the plantation. We were rather charmed by the cheeky bullfinches eyeing our food.
Breakfast is a buffet, with eggs to order, St Lucian dishes such as salt fish and salad, pastries, fruit, and crowd-pleasers including sausages, bacon and tomatoes.
The lunch menu comprises light bites such as wraps, rotis, burgers, fish cakes with chips and a couple of local dishes including green fig and saltfish. At dinner you're serenaded by the night chorus. The food is hearty as opposed to masterful, but the à la carte menu has plenty of choice including salads, Rasta pasta, catch of the day, Fond Doux veg pot, lamb rack or steak. Chocolate features in the enticingly named 'Volcanic Eruption', a must-try dessert, which we are glad we did.
There are thrice-weekly themed nights plus the manager's cocktails on Wednesdays. If you're here for a few days you might want to eat out: staff can recommend and book taxis to local restaurants (some with sunset views of the Pitons); we dined in Soufriere one night for a change of scene.
All 2-Bedroom Cottages have basic kitchenettes for self catering. There is a supermarket down the road for supplies. In terms of equipment you get a microwave, a stove, a fridge, a toaster, a kettle and a coffee maker.
Features include:
- Bar
- Breakfast
- Restaurant
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Chill in your hammock on your private deck, then browse in the library beside the cascading pools
- Take a Chocolate Heritage Tour of this historic plantation to learn about the chocolate-making process from bean to bar
- Head to St Lucia's famous 'drive-in' volcano and Sulphur Springs to enjoy a mud bath (dark swimwear advised!)
- The iconic Pitons are a pair of steep-sided volcanic plugs, now a World Heritage site, best viewed on a boat trip from Soufriere
- Immerse yourself in birdsong and woodland on one of the nature trails for cocoa trees, crops (bananas, nutmeg, coffee, cinnamon), historic battle ruins and stupendous views; we particularly liked the one which culminates in a magnificent view of Petit Piton
- Birdwatch in the tropical gardens. Regular spots include St Lucia orioles, bananaquits and St Lucia pewees, and we had hummingbirds on our terrace – such a treat
- Book a treatment at the Mama La Terre ('Mother Earth') spa. All products are made from natural organic ingredients such as citrus, chocolate and mud from the sulphur springs
- Beach lovers can take the free hotel shuttle to Sugar Beach (15 minutes away, with beautiful white sand and many water sports including sailing, diving and windsurfing) or ask a local taxi driver to drive you to Chastanet Beach (20 minutes) for fantastic snorkelling
- Soufriere has botanical gardens, a Friday night jump-up (street festival) and a Saturday market (fishing trips and sunset cruises depart from here)
- Adrenaline junkies can charter a helicopter, zipline through the rainforest canopy, go horse riding, whale- and dolphin-watching, and hire mountain bikes nearby – enquire at reception
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Cycling
- Golf
- Gym
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Kayaking
- Mountain biking
- Nightlife
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Sailing
- Scuba diving
- Scuba diving courses
- Shopping / markets
- Snorkelling
- Spa treatments
- Swimming
- Traditional cultures
- Trekking
- Well being
- Whale watching
- Wildlife
Kids
Fond Doux is family-friendly and children under 12 stay for free. We think the property is best suited to primary schoolers or older, as there are some steep paths, and no specific facilities for families other than the two swimming pools and the beautiful gardens. We had a successful stay with two teens, making full use of the many attractions nearby.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Each cottage can hold a baby cot. Families will need a 2-Bedroom Cottage (Cocoa Tree or Avocado); bigger families should opt for Deluxe 2-Bedroom Cottage Angelina, which can sleep up to 4 adults and 2 kids. You may find it tricky carrying toddlers up to the hilltop rooms and their verandahs have a steep drop off.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Babysitting:
Baby-sitting can be arranged on request.
Baby equipment:
Baby cots are available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Kids Activities on site:
- Swimming pools – the Gwee Gwee Pool is better for families, as larger and closer to the 2-bedroom cottages
- Nature trails
Kids Activities nearby:
- Sulphur Springs
- Boat trips
- From bean to bar chocolate tours
Families Should Know:
Keep a watchful eye on young ones near the triple cascading pools or the newer lap pool as there's no lifeguard.
Distances:
Airport: 45 minutes (Henowarra)
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Fond Doux is located in lush hills, 6km (3.5 miles) south of the town of Soufriere along St Lucia's winding west coast road, close to the Pitons.
By Air:
Hewanorra International (26km away) in the south of the island is served by many airlines from the US and Europe. If you're arriving from another Caribbean island, you'll most likely fly into George FL Charles (formerly known as Vigie) near the capital city of Castries.
From the Airport
Transfers can be arranged from either airport – the drive from both takes 1-1.5 hours. Enquire when booking.
By Car:
A car is the best way to explore the island and you may feel isolated without one although we managed very well with just transfers. For car hire, see our car rental recommendations. You will need to obtain a temporary St Lucia driver’s licence purchased from the Immigration Office upon arrival at the airport or at the car-rental kiosks when you pick up your car. In addition you have to be over 25 years old and show a valid driver’s licence from home. A word of warning: whilst main roads are fine, they can be mountainous and bendy, so travel may take longer than you expect.
Airports:
- Hewanorra International 26.0 km UVF
- George F L Charles 50.0 km SLU
Other:
- Beach 3.0 km
- Shops 3.0 km
- Restaurant 1.5 km
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