Quercia Rossa

Rustic meets Rococo in this stylish but affordable agriturismo in Tuscany’s (relatively) unexplored Maremma region, between Manciano and the coast

Don’t be put off by the house's exterior. Beneath a 1970s coat of concrete render (a previous owner had suburban aspirations) a period farmhouse survives almost intact. The landscape is completely unspoiled; the views from the pool are stunning. And all will be forgiven once you step inside.

When owners Alessandro Bonanni and Paolo Maresca relocated from Rome in 2003, they brought a touch of urban chic to rural Maremma – thanks to a winning combination of traditional farmstead, a dash of contemporary style, and antique furniture bought from the estate of Augusta Belloc, an English Victorian traveller who ended her days in Florence. The collection (gilt mirrors, Murano chandeliers, French-polished beds, upholstered chairs) spills into every corner, including an elegant salon (tiled floors, beams, log fire), dining room with long communal table, and 6 bedrooms. Outside are fragrant lawned gardens, and, beyond farmland and mature olive groves, set against rolling fields. A gentle breeze ruffles the surface of the outdoor pool. On a clear day, you can see the sea.

Highs

• A blend of cool design, air con, antiques and room to swing a tiger; rooms are terrific value
• Wonderful hilltop views over the Marsillana plains and, in the distance, the Tuscan coast - and lots of vantage points from which to enjoy them
• Alessandro Bonnani speaks excellent English (on any topic of conversation from regional culinary ingredients to Etruscan archaeology)
• His enthusiasm, and a generous library of local guide books, maps, and information, ensure you get the best out of the area
• Perfect if you like a bit of peace and quiet – in the middle of nowhere, but with everything, from walled towns to wineries, nearby

Lows

• At the end of 5km of bumpy dirt road, and 9km from the nearest town, the place feels a little isolated and you will need a car
• The communal dining arrangement is a tad institutional; for romantic dinners à deux, book a table elsewhere
• The pool area has looks a little bare, though new canopies - since this photo was taken - offer much-needed shade