Ras Mbisi Lodge

A sybaritic Indian Ocean hideaway, perfect for lotus-eaters, beachcombers and honeymooners

A deserted beach of purest white coral sand, a line of thatched bandas beneath swaying palms and the Indian Ocean just yards from your deck: there can be few places to stay so droolingly picture-perfect. Your idyll begins with a light aircraft hop from Dar to Mafia Island's tiny airport, followed by a bumpy jeep ride through coconut groves and rice paddies. The long, sandy track eventually ends at Ras Mbisi's high pole-and-thatch lodge, crafted entirely from coconut wood, with white cotton curtains billowing in the sea breeze.

This is a place for really kicking back, one where the pleasure lies in doing very little. The airy main lodge has an intimate vibe with cushion-strewn chill out areas and a sundowner bar hoisted above the dining area: you quickly get on intimate terms with other guests, with Michelle, Jon and their daughters, and with their three doting hounds. The craftsmanship of the lodge is faultless, the food fabulous and the beachside bandas as beautiful as any we've come across.

Highs

• An Eden-esque setting on a remote, virgin, 5-mile beach
• The architecture of the main lodge and the guest bandas has been beautifully conceived and crafted
• Great food and easy, good-natured service from Ras Mbisi's staff
• Michelle has a deep knowledge of Tanzania, Mafia and its people: we really enjoyed hearing her stories of growing up in East Africa
• A top eco-brief

Lows

• Some folk might get itchy feet after a few days
• When we visited overcast weather meant that hot water was a sporadic event, but in the tropical heat this was hardly a problem
• If you're coming for Mafia's world-class diving, bear in mind it's an hour's drive to the Marine Park and dive schools
• Getting there is quite an adventure