Relais Il Falconiere

Exquisite country villa with a Michelin-starred restaurant, elegant gardens and pools basking under the Tuscan sun

Remember that dreamy land of sun-dappled verandas, fragrant gardens and antique-furnished bedrooms which Frances Mayes described in Under the Tuscan Sun? Well, I’ve found it. And, do you know, it’s exactly where she said it was: just outside Cortona, in southeast Tuscany. The only differences are that it’s about a mile north of the house she described (her own), and that, unlike her house guests, you have to pay.

For Il Falconiere is one of those magical country hotels that oozes Tuscan style. The estate has been in the family of owners Riccardo and Silvia Baracchi for more than 300 years, and the atmosphere is one of total serenity. There are glorious views of the Val di Chiana from the 2 swimming pools and the glass-fronted spa, and a vaulted restaurant with a Michelin star and daily cooking classes. Scattered across 12 hectares of landscaped gardens, vineyards and olive groves are 22 rooms and suites, a winery and a private chapel. Don’t be put off by the prefix: although it’s a member of the Relais & Chateaux group, it feels determinedly family-run, friendly and Italian.

Highs

• We loved the peaceful setting, the enchanting views and the beautiful, immaculately-kept grounds; even when full the hotel doesn’t feel crowded
• Elaborate French-style haute cuisine in the restaurant, set inside the estate’s old limonaia - Tuscan ingredients are expertly paired with fantastic wines (many bottled on site)
• Impeccable, almost embarrassingly courteous service
• Daily hands-on cooking classes, plus wine tastings, horse riding, mountain biking and trekking
• Elegant spa with a Turkish hammam, a mineral pool and a menu of multisensory treatments

Lows

• Some rooms in the main building are small, while others are in an annex 300 yards away
• The décor is a little too flowery and old-fashioned for some tastes
• Meals are multi-course affairs with gloved waiters and sommeliers - not for those seeking a simple Tuscan pranzo
• Such memorable food doesn't come cheap, and some feedback suggests service in the restaurant can be slow (but we didn't find this during our visits)