Riad Chi-Chi

Rooms

There are 4 double/twin rooms and 1 suite, all looking onto the central courtyard. Like all riads, the rooms are quite narrow, and the 2 ground-floor ones (Plum and Turquoise) open straight onto the courtyard - expect a little noise at breakfast time. But leaving aside these traditional design characteristics, they are about as perfect as you will find for under 100 Euros. They're also surprisingly quiet: we heard practically no street noise, just a squeak of dawn chorus and the call to prayer from the neighbouring mosque.

The look is what you might call Scandinavia-meets-Morocco chic - the spitting image of Ariha, with the same careful craftsmanship and perhaps a tad more space. Creamy white walls and dove grey woodwork are offset by bright accents of indigo blue or pink in cushions and carpets. Pretty lanterns illuminate bedside niches, tasselled lampshades hang overhead, and chunky rugs sit on tiled or tadelakt floors. Also expect billowing white curtains, plump pillows and fresh flowers. Beds are queensize doubles (which can be made up as twins), with firm Simmons mattresses.

Ground-floor rooms have space for a cot or child's bed, but it's the 3 first-floor rooms which are the ones to go for, if possible. Ivory, where we stayed, has a beautifully preserved menzeh - a bay window with latticed woodwork overlooking the courtyard. Aubergine - our favourite - also has full-height windows, latticed at the bottom and arched up top, plus a seating corner with a working fireplace, and plenty of storage space. The suite, Indigo, has a separate sitting area with a sofa which can be made up as a single bed to create a triple room that actually has enough space for 3.

Bathrooms have peachy tadelakt walls and surfaces, most with a shower only (Indigo has a tub as well), and all with glass bottles of fragrant toiletries made from essential oils. In Ivory's, the domed ceiling has been preserved to create a quirky, hammam-like space.