Riad Numero 9

An exquisitely restored late 18th century house in the heart of Fes' medina, with just 3 bedrooms

Numero Neuf is causing quite a buzz in Fez. This exquisite medina house has been run for the past year as a guesthouse by American Stephen di Renza and his French partner Bruno Ussel. They’re an impressive team: Stephen is a designer – a former creative director for Dunhill and head of product development for Habitat in Vietnam – who’s created the sort of interior that makes you want to rush home, throw out all your old furniture and start again. Bruno is a former restaurateur – and a superb and inventive cook. What’s more, they’re charming, hospitable and attentive hosts, full of entertaining anecdotes (though in Bruno’s case you need to speak French to understand them) and advice about the best places to visit and shop in Fes.

This is a more intimate set-up than most riad hotels, with a mini courtyard and just 3 guest bedrooms. But what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in style. Stephen has combined an eclectic mixture of furniture and accessories from France and the Far East, as well as Morocco. Somehow it all looks absolutely in keeping, without overdoing the ethnic theme. All in all, Riad Numero Neuf is a lovely, extraordinary place, a little bit of magic in a fascinating and mysterious city.

Highs

• Charming and thoughtful owners who speak English and French
• Wonderful decoration – you'll go home full of new design ideas
• Only three rooms, so a small group can take over the whole house (with staff and use of kitchen)
• Largish bedrooms – especially the stunning master suite
• Right in the heart of the medina, off Talaa Sghira between Bab Boujloud and Nejjarine Square
• Superb food
• Lovely views from the roof terrace retreat

Lows

• Not good if you want anonymity – being so small and intimate, it's like staying in a private home
• As with most riads, all rooms open directly onto the courtyard so you may be disturbed by other guests
• The standard room is not en suite, and its unglazed bathroom window opens onto the courtyard
• It’s a 5-minute walk to the nearest car park
• If you’re not keen on dogs you might find the resident Jack Russell rather a handful – especially when eating Japanese style at floor level
• The animal-skin accessories and caged birds on the roof could upset animal-rights types