Riad Numero 9

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Fes, Morocco

An exquisitely restored late 18th century house in the heart of Fes' medina, with just 3 bedrooms

Reviewed by Joanna Symons

OVERVIEW

Numero Neuf is causing quite a buzz in Fez. This exquisite medina house has been run for the past year as a guesthouse by American Stephen di Renza and his French partner Bruno Ussel. They’re an impressive team: Stephen is a designer – a former creative director for Dunhill and head of product development for Habitat in Vietnam – who’s created the sort of interior that makes you want to rush home, throw out all your old furniture and start again. Bruno is a former restaurateur – and a superb and inventive cook. What’s more, they’re charming, hospitable and attentive hosts, full of entertaining anecdotes (though in Bruno’s case you need to speak French to understand them) and advice about the best places to visit and shop in Fes.

This is a more intimate set-up than most riad hotels, with a mini courtyard and just 3 guest bedrooms. But what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in style. Stephen has combined an eclectic mixture of furniture and accessories from France and the Far East, as well as Morocco. Somehow it all looks absolutely in keeping, without overdoing the ethnic theme. All in all, Riad Numero Neuf is a lovely, extraordinary place, a little bit of magic in a fascinating and mysterious city.

COURTYARD
You step through a huge wooden door from the medina into a peaceful courtyard, with an ornamental, fish-filled pool, water spilling from a fountain in an alcove and, centre stage, a sunken Japanese-style dining table with seats covered in red ponyskin. To either side are small salons with rugs, pouffes and banquettes for reading and relaxing.

BEDROOMS

Upstairs each of the 3 bedrooms overlooking the courtyard is like a cleverly styled set piece for Elle Deco.

The first is the so-called standard room, with beamed ceiling, original carved cedar cupboards and a screen dividing bedroom and sitting areas. Light is filtered through deep red and saffron window glass, and you can sit on orange python-skin cushions beneath a pair of 1920s fans from Italy (largely decorative). The bathroom (private, but across the landing) has a copper sink in a large terracotta olive oil pot.

The junior suite (right) has a rabbit fur throw on the bed, Moroccan door ornaments as side tables, a 1930s Venetian glass mirror on the wall, and a roomy sitting area. There are no fans or air-con, but thick walls keep all rooms cool, even in summer. The walk-in shower in the ensuite bathroom is like a mini hammam, complete with buckets and loofah.

Climb another flight of twisting stairs and you come to the master suite, with a magnificent painted ceiling, which links by private balcony to a bathroom cum sitting room running the whole length of the house and dominated by a pair of green leather barber’s chairs. There are whimsical touches every-where you look: an antique china phrenology head and psalmist’s hand on a side table, old canvas suitcases stacked artfully on top of a cupboard.

It’s the antithesis of all those bland, copycat design hotels.

ROOF TERRACE
Stephen and Bruno’s favourite spot is the roof terrace, and it’s easy to see why. There are panoramic views of the medina and the hills beyond. Cacti and oleander sprout from pots, hibiscus winds and curls around shady alcoves and the resident tortoise hibernates in the barbecue. Senegalese parrots and other caged birds chatter and coo.

EATING

Even the cooking is full of delightful surprises.

Breakfasts might include fresh juices such as lime and anise, homemade yoghurt with fruit and pancakes, goats cheese and pumpkin omelettes, fresh bread with honey and his own jams. Bruno, who managed a restaurant in the Marais district of Paris for 10 years, cooks superbly. He will provide lunch or dinner for guests on request: a light herb and pomegranate salad with a lime and sesame dressing perhaps, or the freshest swordfish steaks with fennel and anise.

If you want to head out, the spectacular 19th-century Palais Mnebhi is very close, but Bruno and Stephen can recommend a few lesser known restaurants, from the cheap and cheerful Medina Café near Bab Boujloud, which has "a good sheesha (water pipe) and is comfortable for women alone", to the ceremonial dining and live music of Maison Bleue.

HIGHS

Charming and thoughtful owners who speak English and French
Wonderful decoration – you'll go home full of new design ideas
Only three rooms, so a small group can take over the whole house (with staff and use of kitchen)
Largish bedrooms – especially the stunning master suite
Right in the heart of the medina, off Talaa Sghira between Bab Boujloud and Nejjarine Square
Superb food
Lovely views from the roof terrace retreat

LOWS

Not good if you want anonymity – being so small and intimate, it's like staying in a private home
As with most riads, all rooms open directly onto the courtyard so you may be disturbed by other guests
The standard room is not en suite, and its unglazed bathroom window opens onto the courtyard
It’s a 5-minute walk to the nearest car park
If you’re not keen on dogs you might find the resident Jack Russell rather a handful – especially when eating Japanese style at floor level
The animal-skin accessories and caged birds on the roof could upset animal-rights types

More about Fes

FEATURES

Fan

Heating

Extra Beds Available

Breakfast

Lunch by Arrangement

Dinner by Arrangement

Special Diets Catered

Massage Available

Internet Connection

Fax Available

Laundry Service

Airport Transfer

ACTIVITIES

	Cultural Insight

	Historical Sites

	Museum / Galleries

	Shopping/Markets

Getting there

Name	Riad Numero 9	Location	Fes Medina, Fes
Type	Riad: 3 rooms	Country	Morocco
Price Guide	Dbl: €100-200 BB Whole house for 6-7: €450/night	Open	All year


DISTANCES	Airport: 15km	Nearest Shops: 0.1km	Nearest restaurant: 0.1km	Beach: 125km