Solar do Carmo

A little gem - a beautiful private home in the old colonial town of Ouro Preto

Not too far from the bright lights of Rio in the state of Minas Gerais is Ouro Preto. Born from the discovery of gold in local hill streams back in the 17th century, this town boasts some of the finest Baroque architecture in Brazil. With its steep cobbled streets, fountains, churches and sweeping mountain backdrop, it is truly picturesque.

Of the many places to stay, Solar do Carmo was the one that captured our imagination. With just 3 bedrooms, this is more home than hotel, with scattered family photographs, fine antiques and an enchanting small garden that overlooks the terracotta rooftops and surrounding hillscape. Owner Marcia Litchfield, an Anglo-Brazilian patron of the arts and former editor of Vogue Portugal, has restored this 18th-century townhouse with exceptional taste and artistic flair. The contemporary paintings, polished hardwood floors, Persian rugs, and an elegant sitting room complete with candles, fresh flowers and piles of glossy books and magazines make it stylish yet comfortable.

Highs

• Attention to detail and personal service - you feel like you're staying with a very stylish friend
• Marcia - a fascinating and gracious host
• Being pampered by the housekeeper Marcinha - hot-water bottles at night and homemade cakes at breakfast
• A stone's throw from the main square and next to the opera house - Marcia organises a Baroque music festival in July and a 3-day Poetry and Music festival at the end of November
• Ideal as a side trip from Rio and the perfect antidote to the beaches

Lows

• Although the house is fully staffed and the housekeeper speaks English, staying when Marcia is away may not be quite the same experience (see when to go)
• Don't expect all the facilities of a hotel - no phones, restaurant etc. Solar do Carmo wins on charm, not chain-hotel convenience