Solar dos Mouros

A colourful B&B hotel up on the hill close to the castle, with long views down the river

You’re at the top of the hill in the shadow of the famous castle, but it’s the huge view over city and river that take your breath. All but three rooms have it and it keeps you rooted to the spot, stretching up river past Lisbon’s wonderful suspension bridge that appears to hang in the air. Twelve rooms are over six floors; the higher you climb the better the view. Scale the summit for the room in the eaves with a small balcony (German TV took the whole building for the football in 2004 so the man in charge could have this room).

The style throughout is bright and breezy, with African wood carvings, lots of art and colour everywhere. Owner Luis Lemos is an artist, and his splashy oils adorn most walls. There’s a breakfast room in yellow and red – grab the seat in the alcove for the best view – and a small courtyard garden for peace in the city. Follow cobbled streets up to the castle or drop down the hill to the alleyways of Alfama, one of the capital’s most intriguing quarters. The Number 28 tram will save your legs on the way back up.

Highs

• The long views over the rooftops and down the river
• Big colourful rooms, especially those with small alcoves
• The district of Alfama that clings to the hill beneath you
• Good local restaurants nearby (no evening meals are served)
• Street is quiet at night

Lows

• Breakfast is not included in the price
• The top room has limited headroom
• You’re close to the castle; high season is awash with tourists
• You’re at the top of the hill: it’s a hard climb up, but there is a tram