Sri Lanta

Rustic chic cottages, zen-style spa and pool, set on a quiet sandy beach away from the crowds

Getting to the island of Koh Lanta Yai is quite a journey, requiring all three modes of transport: plane (to Krabi or Phuket), luxury van, then speedboat or car-ferry. But its remote location has preserved it from large-scale development and when you arrive on the quiet beach in front of Sri Lanta, you won't be disappointed. Sri Lanta is a simple Zen-inspired hotel designed to be fully in tune with nature: think wood and grass thatch pavilions, open air bathrooms, pebble paths accented with earthen pots and soothing water features. Alongside the beach is an unusual black-tiled swimming pool, large lawn with plenty of sunloungers and an open-air restaurant serving iced capuccinos. The 40-odd Thai-style cottages are hidden within lush foliage on a hillside.

The atmosphere is laid back, the vibe is upmarket hippy. Guests (mostly 30- and 40-something couples and families) come to unwind: there's a little spa that seemingly floats on water, and shaded beachside salas for chilling out.

Highs

• Tranquil and rustic: ideal for those seeking sun, sea and relaxation off the main tourist trail
• Little luxuries for the grown up backpacker: free internet access, and aircon in the rooms
• Long sandy beach with good swimming and a handful of small beach bars and restaurants just a stroll away
• Siestas in the salas (but watch out for guests bagging them with towels at the crack of dawn)
• The three 'Star Path' villas with their secluded terraces and outdoor tubs

Lows

• The resort has changed hands several times in the last few years and is in need of a little TLC: some areas are getting a bit scruffy, especially the bathrooms
• Recent guest experience of checkout suggests it can be very frustrating with staff speaking poor English and not aware of deposits paid
• Don't expect luxury - Sri Lanta is best suited to those who enjoy a touch of nature
• The resort is divided in two by the small coastal road - the communal areas are on the seafront while the cottages rise up the hill on the other side
• Not for those seeking an active holiday: snorkelling and scuba diving trips to nearby islands can be arranged but forget about sightseeing, shops and hectic nightlife
• Since our last visit, a new hotel has been built next door, so it feels less secluded