Terrace Houses

Eating

The cottages do have kitchens of varying sorts – from a basic kitchenette in 'Fig' to a decently-equipped kitchen-diner in 'Grapevine', while 'Olive' has a winter-only kitchen (see Rooms for more details of all houses). But given the delicious breakfasts and dinners available (in season) at their terrace café, and the choice of restaurants in town, you'll probably end up, like us, preparing little more than the occasional coffee or snack.

We emailed ahead for dinner on our arrival day (you're asked to give a day's notice) and, sitting down at the candlelit terrace table, with the sun setting behind an amphitheatre of tiled townhouses, and a gleaming spread of muffin dishes and painted ceramic plates in the foreground, we knew that self-catering had gone out of the hayiati window. Aysel, the smiling magicienne of the kitchen, lifted the lids and – hey presto! We were assailed by wafts – soon followed by delicious mouthfuls – of baked aubergines, stuffed peppers with rice, tender lamb with beans, fresh picked greens (bitter samphire, milder semirotzu in yoghurt sauce), not to mention homemade trahana pasta and a classic salad. Even if there's one dish you don't like, there are 5 you will (but, since they discuss menus with you in the morning, that's unlikely).

Breakfast, also offered on the terrace, is a fresh and savoury start to the day – nothing fancy, just carefully sliced tomatoes and cucumbers sprinkled with oregano, a star of cheeses (we loved the crumbly cökelek), ramekins of olives and jam, warm corn bread and brioches, plus Aysel's irresistible menemen (scrambled eggs with pepper and tomato). If that doesn't fuel you through Ephesus, nothing will.

If you fancy eating out one night, Sirince has lots of restaurants, from the pretty terrace of Ocakbasi (delicious ravioli and stuffed pumpkin flowers) to the grander Artemis, housed in an old school on the edge of the village (pine-shaded gardens, home-made wine, but beware tour groups at lunchtime). Ask Charlotte and Omer for their latest recommendations.