The Sanctuary

Hippy island hangout that's grown up to be a seriously cool place, with detox and retox in equal measure

Detox or retox, that is the question. All-night beach-party with beers, smokes and music? Or all-day fast, with meditation, massage and a bowl of veggie broth? Both are on offer at the Sanctuary, a laid-back resort on one of the remote beaches of Koh Phangan ('Full Moon Party') island. The social life sure swings: from Notting Hill navel-gazers to Californian casting directors, it has become quite well-known, in an unpublicised sort of way, among the young and trendy. And meeting other guests is definitely part of the fun - sharing stories on the sand, or strumming guitars from a hammock.

But the health treatments are what sets it apart. Dietary courses, herbal steam-baths, massages, hydrotherapy, even colonic irrigation are available for those who need to de-stress physically as well as mentally. This combination makes it unique among Thai beach resorts, but it's not for everyone. If you're after a well-appointed room in a highly-organised resort, look elsewhere. If you want a memorable experience, and don’t mind some friendly chaos, self-examination and dirt under your fingers, then read on…

Highs

• The coast here is glorious – a succession of sandy coves with turquoise sea, backed by dense green rainforest, waiting to be explored on foot or by kayak
• You won't find a healthier or more extensive menu – fresh seafood, spicy curries, steamed veg, fruit smoothies, tofu, low-salt, sugar-free – you name it, they've got it
• Beautiful sea-views, esp. from the higher houses
• You're guaranteed to meet some fascinating people

Lows

• It can be difficult fasting when all around you are feasting!
• All this introspection among the young and beautiful can seem self-indulgent
• Some of the accommodation is very basic, and night-time noise from nearby parties can keep you awake
• It's a little pricier than comparable Thai-owned places
• It can get busy, but nothing like the drug-fuelled mania of Had Rin