The White Villages
Why go?
The province of Malaga contains some of Andalucia’s best
scenery as well as some of its worst. 'Best' are those
white-washed, hilltop villages, bristling with ruined Moorish
castles and fortifications and set against a backdrop of dark,
olive- or pine-clad mountains. Ronda is the largest and most famous
of these pueblos blancos, with its historic bullring,
magnificent views over the deep gorge gashing through the town. And
there are dozens more beautiful villages within the Arcos –
Ronda – Jimena triangle, each with its own highlights.
Commanding some of the best views in the region is Gaucin. In the
sierra expect great panoramic views and great horse riding
and hiking. Not far away unspoilt Jimena de la Frontera makes a
great base for nature lovers.
The stunning scenery - mountains, caves, lakes, gorges -makes a
tour through this area a delight, with plenty of craft shops and
tapas bars to break the journey. And its rich variety of natural
colours, from orchids, poppies and sunflowers to almond blossom and
silvery cork-oaks, make it a real eye-opener for the artistic
traveller.
And don’t think you have to travel by car all the time: some
of the rail journeys, particularly the ascent from Gibraltar to
Ronda and the passage through the El Chorro gorge, are among
Europe’s most breathtaking rides.
Any Downsides?
As for the 'worst' scenery, it is easy to avoid. Just steer clear of the Costa del Sol from Algeciras to Nerja, with its ugly strip development of large hotels and British-aimed pubs and clubs. There is barely a beach or a site worth visiting in its entire 100-mile (160-km) length. If it’s charming coastline you’re after, either head west of Tarifa to the Atlantic-side Costa de la Luz, or drive east from Nerja along the old road towards Granada province and seek out a small cove.