The Apsara

Colourful interiors and super-stylish rooms make this easy-going hotel on the Nam Khan river the hottest ticket in town

This is a cool little restaurant-with-rooms that stands on the banks of the Nam Khan river, one block down from main street. First and foremost, it's an absolute steal, whose remarkable prices and vibrant interiors make it hard to resist. However, this is not an uncommon conclusion to reach and the Apsara get busy weeks ahead, so either book early or wait for Ivan’s new plan to take shape – eight suites on the far side of the river, with a swimming pool shaded by palm trees and a boatman to ferry you across for supper.

Restaurant, bar and salon all come as one, a large open-plan room that opens onto a shaded roadside terrace and which overflows with colour and style: silk lanterns hang from the ceiling, leather stools wait at the bar and seriously good food steams out of the kitchen. The 13 rooms come in a simple, intoxicating colonial style with high ceilings, shuttered windows, fabulous beds and doors onto a terrace or balcony. The Mekong is just around the corner, so hire a boat and explore; caves, waterfalls and yet more temples await.

Highs

• You’re on a quiet road overlooking the river, but you’re close to the action, too
• Warm, colourful stylish interiors make this the coolest place in town
• The airy upstairs bedrooms with views of river and street from small balconies

Lows

• No TVs and no CD or DVD players but there is Wi-Fi access
• The rooms are popular and book up early; last-minute high-season enquiries are likely to end in failure; book as early as you can