OVERVIEW
An art gallery, a wine merchant – you can even get a bed here. This is one of the loveliest places to stay in England and a slightly irreverent spirit flows throughout. You’re encouraged to scruff up your room, come down late for breakfast, and dance on the tables at night (well, nearly). All who come fall under its spell, and when the Good Hotel Guide waxed lyrical about the place, The Times sent a reporter up to find out if it deserved such praise. The answer was emphatic. The Good Hotel Guide had got it quite wrong; the Inn at Whitewell was far better than they’d suggested!
It is all the work of one man. Richard, the Bowman of Bowland (he counts an Agincourt archer as an ancestor) is a quietly eccentric Englishman (MCC tie, half-moon glasses, mischievous smile). Unfortunately, Richard passed away in 2005 but his laissez-faire style is the hallmark of his empire and his son, Charlie, is a chip off the old block. The interior is magical, part ‘country-house’, part ‘country inn’. Walk around and you glimpse fishing rods hanging from the ceiling, the odd bit of vintage luggage lying in a corner. There are stripped wooden floors, roaring fires, deep sofas to take the strain. The hotel, once home to the Keeper of the King’s Forest, dates back to the 14th century and shooting parties still drop in for a drink. It is set in imperious landscape, with the River Hodder passing directly behind (the kitchen once fell into it). Hills rise, the odd trout jumps in the river. If you are looking for affordable luxury in the country, you’ve found it.
ROOMS
Bedrooms are fabulous. Take your pick from a four-poster bed, modern art, peat fires, plush fabrics, a small archipelago of rugs, deep cast-iron baths and the Victorian equivalent of a power shower. They are warm, fun, romantic, indulging. Rooms at the back have views over parkland to hills. Those at the front are a little smaller, but equally delightful. The suite is down a track in a converted barn. It is bigger still, but rooms in the house are closer to the fun. All have CD players, some also have videos. Most incredible is the price. Many hoteliers would charge twice as much, but that is not the Bowman way. You should expect something special here – laid-back luxury in spades.
EATING
In ancient times markets were held in the courtyard and passing merchants would stop to refuel before heading north and risking the bandits. The Hodder Valley was once the grazing ground of deer, all of which were destined for the pot. They still are; the menus here focus on traditional English recipes with lots of roast game, fresh fish and local cheeses. There are menus for bar and restaurant and the place is easy-going enough for you to choose spontaneously where you’d like to eat. In summer, you can eat in the garden. The hotel owns eight miles of river; catch something and they’ll cook it for your supper. The restaurant has long, dreamy views across open country, so bring your binoculars and spy on the wildlife. The hotel doubles as a vintner’s, so expect the best wines.
ACTIVITIES
Head to Settle for antiques. The Yorkshire Dales or the Lake District are good day trips. Stay local and walk, fish or cycle (you can fish from the hotel grounds, borrow bikes and picnic lunches can be made). The Forest of Bowland is nearby, as are Neolithic cave dwellings which date to 1000 BC. Clitheroe Castle is also worth a peek.
HIGHS
- Down-to-earth country elegance
- Great bedrooms that indulge a few dreams
- A very easy-going, relaxing place
- Delicious English food cooked with flair and excellent wines
- Stunning country all around
LOWS
- Don't expect five star facilities; do expect bags of charm and character
- The nearest big town is Preston, which puts some people off
- You are in deep country here, so nightlife tends to revolve around the hotel
- You’ll need a car
- All Saturday nights booked until October 2005 and Christmas/New Year is already full
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FEATURES
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Phone |
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TV |
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CD |
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Video/DVD |
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Restaurant |
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Bar |
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Garden |
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Bicycles Available |
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Disabled Access |
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Wedding License |
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No Smoking Room |
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Pets by Arrangement |
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Parking Available |
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ACTIVITIES
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Cycling |
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Fishing |
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Hiking / Walking |
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