Tunisia: Overview

Why go?

A huge country packed into a small one (the size of England and Wales combined), Tunisia has 1400km of Mediterranean coast, much of it white and sandy. There are huge cork forests and rolling mountains in the north and the undulating desert of your dreams in the south.

Amazing Roman ruins dot the country, including cities, underground villas and an amphitheatre to rival Rome’s Colosseum, while in the south the indigenous Berber architecture looks like it was built by aliens (and was used to film Star Wars; the sets of the latest instalments remain in some places). The Bardo Museum in Tunis has the world’s best collection of Roman mosaics. You can also visit the remnants of ancient Carthage – the stuff of legends and poetry, as well as shop shop shop in glittering souks, such as those in Tunis’ mazelike medina.

You won’t find a more laidback Arabic country; women have more equality here than anywhere in the Arab world. It’s largely Muslim and the call of the muezzin will punctuate your stay.

Any Downsides?

Sexual harassment is a trial for women. Tunisian men see foreign women as tantalisingly up-for-it and available compared with local women due to the strictures of society, and the resulting hassles (mostly staring and persistent chatting up, occasional groping) can be annoying and discomforting. Women can try to diminish harassment and gain respect by dressing conservatively – long trousers or skirts and long-sleeved tops are ideal.

Nightlife in Tunisia is generally quite limited. Watching the world go by over a drink is the main evening pursuit. Alcohol is easy to obtain considering that this is a Muslim country, but bars are not generally suitable for women. There are some nightclubs in the major resorts but these tend towards the cheesy cattlemarket end of the spectrum. Though, that said, some of them are quite fun. Arts lovers will find it’s difficult to see traditional music and dance outside festival times.

Current Weather - Time:

Tunis-Carthage:

Click image for forecast

Activities

* Visiting ancient sites: Quite apart from Roman-Punic Carthage, there are many impressive Roman sites. Perhaps the finest is Dougga, a complete city perched above rolling wheat fields. Bulla Reggia's villas have underground storeys to escape the summer heat – a rare chance to walk inside a complete Roman room. El-Jem’s amphitheatre rivals Rome’s Colosseum, towering over a tiny town in mid-Tunisia. Other fascinating sites include Sbeitla, Haidra, Thurburbo Majus and the marble mines at Chemtou.

* Lazing on the beach: There are some fantastic beaches - long golden curves lapped by piercing-blue Med. Resorts such as Hammamet, Sousse and Jerba get very busy but offer watersports from banana-boating to parasailing. For remoter swims, try powdery-white El-Mansourah, near Kélibia on Cap Bon, or the well-kept-secrets of the north coast.

* Trekking in the desert: The golden rise-and-fall of the southern dunes is the stuff of operatic romances. You can take a 4WD or camel trek, Lawrence-of-Arabia style, from settlements such as Tozeur, Douz and Ksar Ghilane. Light aircraft rides and dune skiing are other options.

* Hill-walking in the north: In this surprising landscape of tall cork oak forests and big rolling mountains, trekking is gradually catching on, with guided hikes on little-known paths. Near the Algerian border is the flat-topped Jugurtha’s Table, once an ancient fortress, with steps hacked up the side for superlative views across the plains.

* Film location spotting: Star Wars originals and prequels were filmed in the south, where the landscape and architecture are weird enough to stand in for alien planets. The English Patient used the medina in Sfax for Cairo and the rolling desert for Egypt. You might recognise the ribat of Monastir – here stones were slung during the Life of Brian. Other locations include Zefferelli’s Jesus of Nazareth (Monastir again) and Indiana Jones & the Temple of Doom.

* Shopping: Put on your bargaining hat in the glittering souks – narrow goods-packed lanes winding through the ancient Arabic medinas. Vibrant carpets, busy ceramics, shiny brassware, patterned basketware and silver jewellery are fun to buy, but it can be tiring, so try the Socopa government emporium (there’s one in every town) or local cooperatives for fixed-price goods.

* Music festivals: Tabarka in the north has excellent summer music festivals, including rai (Algerian music), World, Latin and Jazz festivals. For traditional Tunisian music and international stars try the Carthage International Festival. Nabeul and Hammamet also have lively summer music festivals featuring traditional artists.

	Overview
	Places to Stay
	What's Where
	Tunis-Carthage
	Djerba and Desert
	Background Info
	Travel Tips
	Getting There
	Getting Around
	Visas/Money