U Palazzu Serenu
Oletta, Corsica, France
Super-smart art hotel on the lower slopes of a hillside village, with pool, charming terrace and fabulous sea views
Oletta is an ancient village that brings together the 2 landscapes
that unite this stunning island: mountain and sea. It stands high
in the sky on the side of a hill with sweeping views shooting north
to the coast at St Florent. As you’d expect, this
300-year-old nobleman’s house makes the most of its position.
Manicured lawns roll down to a summer house, where breakfast is
served overlooking the valley, while the swimming pool terrace
climbs the hill with sunbeds on each level. Serene indeed.
Inside, you find a white hotel that doubles as an art gallery. Each
wall features the work of a different artist with sculpture,
photography and contemporary art all on display. You’ll find
it in reception, the cute little bar and the chic restaurant, where
you stop for some very good food. Bedrooms - white walls,
white furniture, white pressed linen - are exemplary. Views float
in from mountain and valley; those at the front look out to sea.
You get smart wood floors, a couple of armchairs, contemporary art
above your impossibly comfortable bed, then robes in wonderful
bathrooms. Two garden rooms open onto small terraces, while sitting
rooms in the suites come with long white sofas. St Florent, sandy
beaches and Le Cap de Corse all wait.

Reviewed by Tom Bell
Last updated 03 January 2012
Highs
- A beautiful part of Corsica, and heaps to do in the area: white-sand beaches, charming little villages, watersports, hiking in the mountains, and the magical Cap de Corse
- Excellent food - the special 'truffle menu' is hard to resist and the daily menu has some great choices: foie gras ravioli, veal Saltimbocca with tomato petal confit, salted caramel ice cream
- The 8 enormous white bedrooms, some with sea views, all with beautiful bathrooms; wonderfully romantic
- The manicured garden is a gorgeous place to linger with its sparkling pool and pretty summer house
- ‘Easily accessible’ is not a phrase you often hear on Corsica, but Bastia airport to Oletta is a cinch (15km)
Lows
- There’s no parking - space is at a premium in a mountain village. There's a free carpark 100m away, and you can park on the road outside the hotel, but this is easier in low season than mid-July
- Small-ish towels and plastic mugs in the bathrooms don’t fit the mood of this otherwise beautiful hotel
- Rooms are extremely expensive in high and peak season, but they do include breakfast, rare on Corsica
- We don’t advise the half-board option - the food is good, but there are some great restaurants nearby and you’ll want to eat out, too
- The best local beaches are only accessible by boat, though this is easily done in the summer
The fashionable U Palazzu Serenu fills a real need on the island...
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