Uruguay: Overview

Why go?

Squeezed between goliaths Argentina and Brazil, South America’s second smallest nation (only Suriname is smaller) is big on appeal. Its primary draw is 120 miles of Atlantic coastline - much of pristine - accompanied by sunny, mild days (15°C to 28°C) year-round. Expect fascinating diversity - from the cobblestone streets of a World Heritage Site to the high rise-rimmed beaches of an internationally renowned resort, where the latest hot spot changes with each “season.” Venture slightly off the beaten path to spot rare flamingos, buy homemade cheese from a roadside queseria, or visit gaucho towns where you’re the only gringo in sight.

North American and European tourists typically discover Uruguay on a day trip to its founding city, Colonia del Sacramento, 50 minutes by ferry across the Rio del la Plata (the River Plate). Others - especially Argentinians and a growing number of Brazilians - jet in to Punta del Este for “the season” (December-February, South America’s summer). The object: revel in the beaches, world-class dining and exclusive nightclubs and glitterati - itself an integral part of the scenery. In fact, this is one of the safest places in South America to travel in style. Crime is practically non-existent.

Any Downsides?

For all its natural beauty, Uruguay’s homogeneous, mostly European middle-class doesn’t offer the colorful, indigenous culture other South American countries do.

“Punta” prizes its exclusivity. Everyone knows everyone else and unless you’re not “on a list,” in the know or endowed with extraordinary beauty, you stand very little chance of getting into the hottest night spots and private parties in million-dollar mansions. Even Rio’s Copacabana crowd has trouble getting past the bouncers.

Traveling here is safe - until you get behind the wheel. Place the hand that typically guards your wallet firmly on the steering wheel and keep your wits about you on two-lane roads in the coast and countryside. Even tiny Jose Ignacio - with no traffic lights or signs - can be a challenge during high season.

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Activities

*Historic sites: Picturesque Colonia del Sacramento, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is Uruguay’s oldest city, settled by the Portuguese in 1680 who then fought the Spanish for dominion for nearly a century. Stroll Portuguese (irregular stone) and Spanish colonial (brick) streets in the Barrío Historico; remarkably preserved Portuguese homes - painted pink and yellow with white lace curtains - sit beside Spanish colonial structures. One pass (US$1) gets you into specialised museums displaying everything from period furnishings to exquisite tiles. Day-trippers prefer the high-speed ferry, which takes 50 minutes (versus 3 hours).

*Beaches: Perched on a rocky peninsula jutting into the Rio de la Plata, Colonia del Sacramento is renowned for its shallow, (though chocolate-brown) freshwater beaches. But the real draw for most is Uruguayan Riviera - a string of beach towns hugging the Atlantic Ocean - from Punta del Este’s Bikini Beach to the pristine dunes of Jose Ignacio.

*Dining/Nightlife: Catch the sunset at a casual beachfront diner, called a parador. Then dine at 11 at the restaurant of one of South America’s best chefs. In Punta, the night is still young. Depending on your connections, you can party ‘til dawn at the newly anointed hot spot, a Vegas-style casino or an invitation-only party.

*Water sports: Beach-hopping is actually a sport here. But if it involves water, you can practice just about any sport on these Atlantic beaches: parasailing, surfing, windsurfing, kite-surfing, surf fishing, waterskiing, boating, and more.

*Nature: Surrounded by two lagoons covering 4,000 hectares, wilderness-loving Jose Ignacio invites birdwatchers to view flamingos and other birds native to Uruguay. Explore on foot, bicycle or horseback. From July to October, you can hear right whales bellowing near Punta Ballena and visit the Isla de Lobos sea lion colony.

*People-watching: Soap-opera stars, trust-fund babies, uber-tanned jet-setters, gorgeous glamazons and international supermodels all flock to the beaches of Punta del Este - the St.-Tropez of South America - with one shared goal: to see and be seen. Enjoy the parade sipping the traditional white wine- sangria-champagne concoction called clerico.

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