“Deep peace, big views and tons of style at this cool hotel on the edge of a desert”
There are 10 rooms in the main house and 12 cubes in the courtyard. All have gorgeous daybeds built into bay windows. This is the signature feature of the hotel and it works a treat - comfy little sofas that are easy on the eye. They are especially good in the cubes with desert views as you can loll about all day, losing your gaze in the horizon and watching the light at play.
The style throughout is the same. Minimalist interiors come with pared-down contemporary design. You get white walls, stripped floorboards and raw pine window frames. None are huge so if you want extra space book one of the suites, which have sofas in separate sitting areas. All rooms have bathrobes and toiletries in white-tiled bathrooms that come with excellent power showers. There’s good storage, too, and air conditioning, and flat-screen TVs hang on the walls (though annoyingly they only have Spanish channels).
Rooms in the main house don’t have desert views, but they all come with private terraces, 5 of which hold open-air bathtubs. These terraces are very private - no windows overlook them. Two rooms in the main house are suites, and their sitting areas open onto private garden terraces, where a bathtub waits. We've heard feedback that these main-house rooms can be noisy so if this bothers you, book a cube.
Of the 12 cubes, 9 have desert views; they are exceptionally popular. Three don’t have the view, but instead come with private terraces and big open-air bathtubs. One suite has windows everywhere: in the bedroom, in the sitting room and in front of a big square bath for 2 people. The other suite has an open-air bath overlooking the desert, but book early if you want it - it’s the most popular room of all. Cubes with desert views don’t have terraces. Some have chairs outside in the courtyard, but these are not particularly private.
The food is excellent, some of the best we encountered on our trip to northern Spain. You eat in a smart restaurant with balls of light hanging from the ceiling. It overlooks the interior courtyard on one side and the kitchen garden on the other, beyond which wind turbines turn on a ridge. Doors open onto terraces and breakfast and lunch are served in the sun when it shines.
Breakfast is delicious. Expect plates of elegantly sliced fruit, fabulous cheeses and local hams. You get baskets of croissants and pains au chocolat, then homemade rolls and baguettes. There’s freshly squeezed orange juice and strong coffee, too.
Dinner was even better. Drive around Tudela and you will see that farming is the main business here, this seemingly inhospitably land tamed over the centuries. It is known for its vegetables and a bowl of artichoke hearts served with oil and salt made an astoundingly tasty starter when we visited. This can be followed by all sorts of delicious main courses, perhaps sea bass cooked with squid risotto or lamb from the desert. Puddings are sweet, perhaps crème caramel or a delicious lemon sorbet served with vodka that comes like a milkshake and which you drink through a straw.
If you want to eat in Tudela, head to Triquete, which serves good traditional Navarre fare. Restaurant 33 goes big on vegetables and occasionally offers a vegetable tasting menu, but there’s lots of meat and fish, too. You’ll also find a clutch of funky bars near the plaza. Note that lots of restaurants and bars are closed Sunday-Tuesday.
If you want something special, head down to Zaragoza (90km, 1 hour by car) and try Bal d’Onsera, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the city. It’s in the old quarter, close to El Tubo, where you'll find the best tapas in town.
Children are welcome, though most guests are couples, especially at weekends. Baby cots are available and your daybed(s) can turn into a child's bed (both at extra cost). There’s not much for children to do here, and they’ll need supervision by the pool.
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)
A suite with 1 or 2 rollaway beds. Alternatively, there are connecting double rooms - book one with a patio, and one with a patio and open-air bathtub, and specify you would like them to be connecting.