“Lisbon’s loveliest luxury hotel, on the arty side of town with a gorgeous roof terrace giving long views over the river”
Rooms are spread over five floors: all rooms (except Mansard) have French windows onto the square or street; floors 1-3 have Juliet balconies, those on the 4th floor are larger. Inspired by Lisbon, colour schemes alternate between red (rooftiles), yellow (trams), ivory white (cobblestones) and duck-egg blue (river); all have hand-painted frescoes of birds.
Expect the full spec: shiny wood floors, incredibly comfortable beds, crisp white linen, air-con, double glazing, minibars and good storage; top categories benefit from coffee machines.
Airy bathrooms aren’t huge, but are delightful: heated towel rails, deep baths that fill fast, deluge showers, bathrobes and Miller Harris potions.
Singles have room for a small desk and armchair; Mansard rooms in the 5th floor eaves have lower ceilings. Both are wallpapered with Ralph Lauren stripes that match the silk curtains and bathroom tiles.
Superior rooms have high ceilings and half-panelled walls. Corner-sited Deluxe rooms are larger with double-aspect windows and a wardobe area. Prestige rooms are bigger still with sofas, slipper baths and walk-in showers.
Super-king Suites are enormous, warmly grand. Open the double doors for one extra-large room or keep them closed for a separate sitting room. Expect all the trimmings: bathrooms for two, gold silk curtains, Portuguese art, a chaise longue. Double-aspect windows face the centre of town.
Rates include an excellent buffet breakfast served in the dining room. Coffee, tea, freshly-squeezed orange juice and baskets of patisserie are brought to you. There are plates of fruit, yoghurts, cold cuts and cheese, cakes, cereals, and bacon and eggs.
The hotel's Restaurante Flores do Bairro offers delicious modern Portuguese food. Sharing starter plates include mussels in onion stew, grouper ceviche and duck croquettes with green mango chutney; for main, you might choose pork cheeks or truffle linguine. When we revisited in 2016, we tried codfish and chickpea salad followed by a turbot and Iberian pork combo. Dessert was a decadent chocolate 'Jubileu'. Be sure to kick off your meal with a visit to the BA Terrace for cocktails (sublime red berry mojitos) with a view. Room service is available 24 hours daily, and the BA Café-Bar has a Nano Bites menu of lighter dishes including breaded quail eggs with parsley and codfish fritters with remoulade.
If you want to eat out, you’re spoilt for choice from 2* Michelin restaurants to hole-in-the-wall joints, fado singers to ethnic cuisines; the concierges can make recommendations.
Although the emphasis is on a refined hotel experience, the useful central location (steps away from both the Number 28 tram, shopping and a Metro stop) plus the genuine warmth of the staff towards children mean this is a surprisingly good place to stay for families as we found when revisiting the hotel with kids in 2016. Children under 12 stay for free and baby cots, extra beds and babysitting are available.
Superior rooms can interconnect, as can Suites with Single rooms. Deluxe and Superior Rooms have space for a baby cot or an extra bed; Prestige rooms and Suites have space for a baby cot and rollaway bed
Available on request, with multi-lingual nannies
Baby monitors available from reception
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
The breakfast buffet has options for all. We found the restaurant menu a little grown-up but they are happy to whip up simple dishes on request such as pasta and grilled fish with chips. Families get a plate of Portuguese custard tarts and house-made fruit sweets on arrival
If you're coming to Lisbon with a baby or toddler, resist the urge to bring the stroller if you can still use the carrier, as Portuguese pavement isn't conducive to pushchairs (as we found to our cost!)