By Kate Parsons, Head of Reservations
Eight miles long, three miles wide, and with just one main road snaking through it, the sleepy island of Folegandros is Greece at its simplest and perhaps most alluring. No buzzy nightlife or over-touristy attractions here, just crystalline waters, one of the best-preserved villages in the Cyclades, traditional cooking, and sunsets that rival Santorini’s. It’s my favourite Greek island, which is why I keep going back for more. Here are my tips on what to do, where to stay and how to get around.
What to see
There are 3 main villages on Folegandros. Karavostasis is the island’s port town – little more than a fishing village but it has some cute seafood restaurants and a pebbly beach. Ano Meria is a cluster of old farmhouses, stone-lined crop plots and ancient ruins that sit atop a hill; it has an interesting Ecological and Folklore Museum that documents life on the island throughout the centuries. And Chora is postcard-perfect, with a medieval castle and whitewashed houses set around squares draped in bougainvillea. Tavernas spill onto streets, locals play backgammon in the bars, and mesmerising views of the Aegean are straight ahead.
The best sunsets in Greece?
The Greek islands are famous for their sunsets, but few can match those on Folegandros. Remember that scene in Mamma Mia when they follow a winding path up to an adorable little church? Just on from Chora you’ll find Folegandros’ very own version: the Church of Panagia, which lords over the Aegean from a lofty peak and has breathtaking views of the island. The twisting, 15-minute climb up to it feels gloriously romantic, but it can be busy with Instagrammers looking for the perfect photo, so go early to get a good view. Top tip: take a drink up with you to toast the sinking sun and blazing orange sky.
A snorkeller’s paradise
Thanks to no mass tourism, the sea surrounding Folegandros remains undisturbed, thus marine life thrives and the water is clear as glass. Some of our favourite spots to snorkel are Georgitsi Cave – close to Livadi beach, and inhabited by anemones, sponges, hermit crabs and lobsters – and Agios Nikolaos beach, home to the impressive Blue Caves. There are daily boat trips that call at secluded beaches and some of the best snorkelling and diving spots in Folegandros – Sea U Diving Center in Chora is recommended by our friends on the island.
Where to eat
You can’t go wrong when it comes to eating out in Folegandros. Generally, fresh fish, crunchy salads, local cheeses and souvlaki are what’s on offer. A Folegandros speciality is matsata: homemade pasta ribbons in tomato sauce, usually with either rabbit, goat or chicken. We had an excellent seafood matsata (with king prawns, clams and boatloads of garlic) whilst enjoying the heavenly sea views at Blue Sand. Another great meal was at Papalagi Seafood Restaurant, also with astounding views, where the fresh fish ceviche was perfectly paired with ice-cold wine. In Chora, we picked Chic, its little wooden tables magically lit by fairy lights. The mezze dipping plates and the lamb and prune stew in particular were delicious.
Where to stay
We adored Blue Sand Boutique Hotel. It overlooks Agali Beach and is stylish yet relaxed and very romantic, with some of the best beaches on the island nearby (but no pool). If you want to be closer to the action, Anemomilos Boutique Hotel in Chora is a delight, with charismatic owners, balconies with killer views, and tavernas on its doorstep; it’s super popular so you’ll need to book well ahead. Larger Anemi Hotel in Karavostasis has suites with private pools, a yoga studio next to a vineyard, and the only spa on the island.
Getting there and getting around
The island is tiny so there’s no airport (which keeps charter flights away). You’ll need to travel via high-speed boat, either from Athens Piraeus (4 hours) or Santorini (1 hour); both have international airports. Slower boats are available – schedules are usually published by March (check openseas.gr). Once on the island, you can get around by bus (it calls at the main villages). It stops running fairly early, though, so if you want to head out for dinner you’ll need to get a taxi or rent a car. A popular way to explore the north of the island, which doesn’t really have any tarmacked roads, is by moped or quad bike – ideal for a day of beach hopping.