“Jungle paradise at a rustic yet luxurious retreat, in a secluded reserve 30km from the Iguazú Falls”
Set around a courtyard and linked by colonnaded terraces, the 14 rooms are all spacious and spoiling. High ceilings open to the rafters and floors of polished stone mean they’re deliciously cool; chunky furniture, large windows (screened against bugs) and a shared veranda looking out over the trees ensure they don’t lose touch with the forest outside. Vibrant tones that mimic the hues of the jungle - jade green, sienna, terracotta - adorn huge headboards hewn from rough timber, and wooden animals sculpted by indigenous Guaraní artists add a dash of local flair.
There’s no shortage of pampering touches - the pillow menu runs onto 2 pages, bathrooms come with stone-clad tubs and L'Occitane toiletries, and each room has a mini library of books by Latin American authors to peruse. Kingsize or twin beds are dressed in crisp Egyptian cotton and soft llama-wool blankets, and there are bathrobes and slippers to snuggle up in. We particularly liked the oversized mirror propped up against one wall - useful for ensuring you’re presentable for dinner after a day roaming the reserve.
Meals are taken in the restaurant-cum-lounge - a lofty space with a scattering of candlelit tables and squishy sofas, plus a piano and an entire wall of books. In keeping with the décor, the food blends international sophistication with distinctly Argentine flavours, many of them sourced from the garden or the waters of the Paraná.
Breakfast is a spread of fruit, ham, cheese, pastries, cereal and eggs, accompanied by good coffee, juice and dulce de leche (which the Argentines smother on everything from toast to cake). Lunch and dinner (included in the rates if on a package) are à la carte, and menus change daily. For starters we sampled sweetcorn empanadas and croquettes with a fiery tomato sauce; our mains were manioc gnocchi with gorgonzola, and tender pacu river fish. We finished with zingy mate ice cream - a real palate-cleanser.
The vast wine cellar means there’s plenty of choice when it comes to drinks, available all day in the lounge or wine cave and often accompanied by picadas (tapas-style snacks). You can also order drinks from the pool or treetop deck and linger over a cocktail (the chilled mate and orange concoction is highly recommended).
Every few days the lodge organises an asado (traditional barbecue) on the edge of the reserve - a treat we enjoyed on our final night. Tucking into platters of succulent meat while gazing at the star-splattered sky was a magical end to our stay.
Children over the age of 8 are welcome, and adventurous kids would enjoy exploring the reserve, hurtling along the river on a speedboat and visiting the Iguazú Falls. Although there’s no children’s menu, the fantastic restaurant staff will do their best to tailor meals to fussy eaters. Note that there’s a slight risk of malaria from local mozzies, so consult your doctor about suitable precautions for children.
Teens (over 12)
Many rooms can accommodate extra beds.