Still largely untouched by tourism, Sri Lanka's east coast is a glorious swathe of pristine golden sands, fringed by palm trees, laid-back fishing villages and meandering lagoons.
Kalkudah Beach is its poster child, a 12km stretch of shoreline sprinkled with coconut plantations and cashew groves, and at the time of writing there is only one hotel here – the blissfully low-key Karpaha Sands.
Trincomalee is the coast's capital, a small, colourful historic town with a handful of Hindu temples – just to the north Uga Jungle Beach offers laid-back luxury; further south, Batticaloa is a sedate colonial Tamil town ringed by lagoons. Passikudah is the busiest spot, a well-developed bay home to high-end resort-style hotels, offering a range of watersports.
For a taste of wilderness while in the east, consider adding on a stay near Gal Oya National Park. This lesser-visited sanctuary features the largest reservoir in the country and is noted for its biodiversity including a year-round elephant population and over 150 bird species. Gal Oya Lodge has great access to the park and excellent naturalists.
Also known as the 'sunrise' coast, the east's seasons are in direct opposition to the west's. February-September is the dry season, and May-August is the very best time for flat seas, coastal swimming and blazing sunshine – which works well for European school holidays. Monsoon season here is normally October to January.