Some people say that the original and best Greek island has overstretched itself. Despite its tiny size, it has almost as many visitors as Crete. Most of the buildings are hotels, tavernas or shops catering exclusively to tourists. Beaches are packed, cruise ships bring new crowds every day, evenings are loud and long.
Others say: what more could you ask for? The latest music, top fashion outlets, lively company (both gay and straight), beachfuls of bronzing bodies (lots of models), guaranteed sunshine and the most picture-perfect harbour front of any Cycladic town. It's Ibiza meets Byblos meets Shirley Valentine.
We say it's one of those places you've got to visit once in your life - preferably in your twenties (or thirties, if you made your millions a bit too late). You'll feel glamorous, extravagant, spoiled, knowing you're at the heart of where it's at in Greece ... until the fake-blonde waitress reminds you they need your table back in 30. Be prepared to wait a bit, to spend a lot, to dance and eat and drink until the small hours, and to fall asleep next day on the beach without enough sunblock - and you'll have a whale of a time.