“10/10 for staggering views, this mountain retreat offers 4 chic chalets to cosy up in with your partner”
Four identical chalets line the mountain, their entirely glass fronts maximising the epic views. Better still, each has a private terrace (with wooden table and chairs) perfect for gazing at the scenery over a cup of tea or, as we did, huddling down to admire a magnificent storm. Inside, the large open-plan living room and kitchen occupy the ground floor (along with the bathroom). Wander upstairs and you’re in the mezzanine attic bedroom. A low double bed maximises the space beneath the eaved ceilings, and a firm mattress holds 2 single duvets - great if you’re always arguing about who steals the bedclothes. Bathrooms are small but perfectly formed: shiny chrome finishes, toiletries, a big heated towel rail and a spacious shower. Overall, the décor is quite stark, but the feel is clean and minimalist. Contemporary chrome lamps and a small copper bowl provide the only homely touches; we felt it would be nice to add a couple of pictures or the odd piece of decorative art. However, we give it full marks for welcoming extras: waffle bathrobes and full-length mohair robes for winter, bright-red Crocs to wander about in, chocolates to snaffle, and a bowl of dried apple slices (delicious).
Unusually, Nebesa has no restaurant; instead Katja and Bojan provide a variety of food for you to help yourselves to at any time. In the main building, the communal kitchen adjoins a sociable dining area and terrace. Below this is a cold room filled with treats. Locally cured salamis and prosciutto, traditional hard cheeses and crackers are nice for lunch. There are big urns of local wines to wash it down (we preferred the whites); if you’d like something more upmarket, a selection of excellent wines are available on an honesty-bar basis (sold at cost price). In your chalet, a breakfast of yoghurt, juice, UHT milk, processed cheese and fresh cherries waits in your fridge - perfect for lazy mornings. Muesli, teas and coffees are in the cupboard; wander over to the main building for bread and jams, too. In the evenings, you’re on your own. Self-cater in your well-equipped chalet (pots, pans, knives, sieves, a grater, a hob, etc) using produce bought from the supermarket in Kobarid (15 minutes’ drive) or dine out. We had an unbelievably good meal at the famous Hiša Franko, run by Katja and Bojan's daughter; local produce cooked in a theatrical way - think dry ice swirling around a martini glass filled with tomato jelly and fresh octopus, or wild herb and flower salad with blueberries and an egg yolk.