Phum Baitang

Siem Reap, Cambodia Book from

Peaceful, serene and pamperingly simple, this is a very special place, just 15 minutes from Siem Reap
Phum Baitang (pronounced Baitong) is more than just a hotel: it's a serious commitment - to tranquility and rigorous style. It is spread over 8 acres of perfectly level land and tries to recreate a Cambodian farming village as closely as possible, complete with rice paddies, towering sugar palms and clumps of verdant trees. Guests stroll across dykes and raised walkways from stylish villa to vast 50m infinity pool to airy restaurants, to end up without fail at the magnificent Angkor-temple spa, with its Zen-like treatment rooms.

Surrounded by precisely nothing, the 45 generously spaced villas need to provide all the comforts of an isolated cottage, and they do: gorgeous untreated wood, natural fabrics, whispering air-conditioning, lovely antiques, and a fully loaded smart TV, plus either a lovely terrace or a plunge pool on your private lawn. And you’re just 15 minutes from Angkor Wat.


  • A rewarding sense of being one of the few, not one of the many
  • Gorgeous design, and views over the rice paddies as far as the eye can see
  • Attentive, discreet staff dressed in immaculate white linen, and a lovely English general manager
  • Space for everyone: couples, friends, solos and families
  • Environmental awareness


    • You’re in the middle of nowhere. Make sure you’re cut out for serenity
    • The paddy fields get hellish hot, and the young trees don't yet provide shade or privacy. You’ll need those pristine white umbrellas
    • Not cheap but it's a one-off

Best time to go

The winter (mid-November to February) is best and also the most popular season: it's dry and relatively cool. Avoid March to May - it'll fry you alive. The rainy season, June to November, is also a good option: it usually only rains for an hour and the rest of the time it's bearably muggy, and everything is lush and green.

Our top tips

Rent a car (reception can arrange). It gives you so much more freedom, especially in the evening when cabin fever sets in, and it is a relief to be independent of the tedious guides and drivers.

Great for...

Great Outdoors
  • = Recommended
  • = Best in region
  • = World favourite
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 45
  • Restaurants and bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Heated Pool
  • Spa
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Yoga lessons
Room: Terrace


The stilted villas approximate - rather than copy - Cambodian farmhouses. Walls are untreated hardwood on the outside but concrete on the inside for comfort and noise protection. Double shutters make double-sure.

Inside everything is made of natural materials, though the sheets are top-of-the range. Tall ceilings with exposed rafters make the spaces feel even bigger than they are. Each room has a smart TV, espresso maker, sofa, desk and antique cabinet. Stylish bathrooms come with mod cons, lotions and potions, stone his 'n' hers sinks on either side, and a big half-egg bathtub.

We slightly preferred the Terrace Villas because of their lovely raised decks overlooking the fields: a great place to relax. The bigger Pool Villas have a little manicured lawn and private plunge pool.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Cd player
  • Coffee maker
  • Coffee tea making
  • Cots Available
  • Dvd player
  • Extra beds
  • Fan
  • Fireplace
  • Hairdryer
  • Ipod dock
  • Kitchenette
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Oven
  • Phone
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Satellite tv
  • Terrace
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi
  • Wifi internet


There are 2 restaurants on site. Bay Pshar dishes up a vast breakfast buffet (included in the room rate) and simple lunches. Hang Bay near the entrance is the only public air-conditioned space, with ‘fusion’ cuisine at night: it can be opened to the elements. Alternatively, guests can shop for their own ingredients on-site and get a Khmer meal cooked for them in their villa - the rice will one day come from the hotel’s own paddies.

The pool bar serves drinks and juices all day, while the magnificent Cigar & Cocktail Lounge is set in a 100-year old authentic farmhouse, for a whiff of the Joseph Conrad.

Further afield, the Bo Street area of Siem Reap has a range of restaurants. Barrio is a great if unprepossessing French place run by an old-school Frenchman who’ll give you a free glass of rotgut if he likes you. Good Khmer restaurants abound in the heart of town.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Children meals
  • Coffee maker
  • Coffee tea making
  • Cooking classes
  • Kitchenette
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Oven
  • Restaurant
  • Room service


  • Explore the majestic temples of Angkor with a dedicated guide (or go it alone; they tend to be dolts so buy a decent guidebook instead). The hotel also offers a Vespa tour of the temples, which could be sweaty fun
  • Or take a helicopter ride to really appreciate the enormous size of the temple complex in its forested setting
  • Go walking in Phnom Kulen National Park, with its rivers, forests and stunning waterfalls
  • Don't miss Tonle Sap, Asia’s largest freshwater lake, which floods with monsoon rains and teems with fish. It’s 10km south of Siem Reap and boat cruises plough their furrow, taking in the various floating communities
  • Feel all Apocalypse Now by being driven around the outback in a vintage Vietnam-era jeep
  • Play golf at the Angkor Resort course designed by Nick Faldo (nope, us neither)
  • Back at the hotel, take a Khmer cooking class, drink cocktails by the enormous pool, or try the A-Z of treatments in the spa

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Boat trips
  • Cooking classes
  • Cycling
  • Fishing
  • Helicopter rides
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse-riding
  • Kayaking
  • Mountain biking
  • Museums / galleries
  • Private guided tours
  • Safaris
  • Shopping / markets
  • Traditional cultures
  • Trekking
  • Wildlife


The resort has a dedicated kids' club in a corner not too close to the adult recreation areas, and Cambodians are very good with children. That said, no kids were present during our visit, and perhaps it's not for the very boisterous. The resort is all about peace.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

All villas have a kingsize bed and space for 1-2 baby cots or rollaway beds.


On request

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • Highchairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Creche/Kid's Club:

The kids’ club offers a range of activities including arts and crafts, water play and cooking classes. Children can also take part in an Angkor discovery tour and rice-harvesting activities.

Children's meals:

Kids' menus in the restaurants

Kids Activities on site:

  • Swimming pool
  • Games and toys

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Angkor Wat
  • Boat trips

Families Should Know:

Dengue fever exists in southeast Asia, and the sun beats down hard for most of the year


  • Airport: 10 mins' drive (Siem Reap)
  • Shop: 10 mins' drive
  • Hospital: 20 mins' drive (Siem Reap)
Kid Friendly:

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