“Beautifully restored dwelling turned 3-suite guesthouse gem, in the heart of the historical centre”
The Pousada's welcoming ambiance creates a comfortable at-home experience. All 3 suites and common areas retain a wonderful lightness of touch; Jô's exquisite taste has curated rooms which follow both form and function, with pops of colour in armchairs and a few pictures - there's no extraneous bric-a-brac. From wide floorboards to copper sinks, all-white walls to beautiful antique side tables, you know you're in the presence of a master interior decorator.
Her original bedroom is now the Main Suite, up a little staircase from the living room. Here you'll find a kingsize and single bed, cobalt and scarlet armchairs, a long ensuite bathroom with rain shower and tub, and a small balcony which overlooks the patio and rooftops and banana fronds towards the sea. There's space for an extra bed, too.
The Garden Suite is the smallest (and not really abiding by the definition of a suite) with a queensize bed and charming shower bathroom. Just outside is the patio and pergola where breakfast is served; your alfresco living room.
Across the patio is the 2-storey Guest House Suite. This is a spacious affair benefiting from shuttered windows and a private entrance to the street. A small kitchen has fridge, hob, copper sink and microwave; there's a dining table and armchairs to the other. A bathroom with a sunken tub plus rain shower leads off the main room. Upstairs, the bedroom has a kingsize bed, a day/single bed and views over rooftops towards the sea from its dormer windows. There's plenty of space for an extra bed, too.
Local flowers are placed in every suite, all linens are 400-thread count and beach towels are provided. You also get a fan and air-con (much needed in the summer). Bathrooms have robes, hairdryer and complimentary toiletries. You'll find a basket by your door to hold outdoor shoes, which aren't permitted in the Pousada; change into the Havaianas you get for booking through i-escape.
Breakfast is the only meal available - but what a feast! Served at the time of your choosing in your suite or out on the patio, you get trays of fresh tropical fruit (sometimes served as a fruit salad), ham, cream cheese, a basket of freshly baked breads, yoghurt, squeezed OJ, granola, condiments such as local honey and jam, eggs cooked to order and plentiful tea and coffee.
For other meals, if staying in the Guest House Suite, you'll find enough cooking utensils to rustle up a meal on the hob; there's also cutlery, pots and pans, microwave and a kettle. There's a grocery store just a block away. For guests in the other suites who want to prepare a quick sandwich or make a cup of tea, just ask and you can use the kitchen in the main house.
Dining out is a treat in Paraty. Stroll around the cobbled streets to find a cuisine of your fancy - the Pousada provides a map of the town with restaurants highlighted. We dined at Margarita Cafe one night - delicious cocktails and great specials. We also really liked the innovative fusion cooking at the more pricey Banana de Terra, which gives a contemporary twist to local ingredients especially seafood - think fish with bananas or tapioca puree or their own take on traditional moqueca. At the other end of the scale, there are a number of Thai and pizza takeaways. Paraty is home of cachaça; there's even a shop in town selling nothing else so be sure to imbibe.
For lunch, you'll most likely be out on an expedition, so try the eateries by the beach or near the waterfalls. We had a memorable fish and chips plus beans and salad lunch in a little shack by the water, which we were taken to by our skipper on our boat trip. If in town, try Galeria do Engenaho or Pizzeria de Cidade.
Children are made very welcome by Uirá and Jô. Extra beds are available, but you'll need to bring a travel cot for babies. There are plenty of family friendly activities in and around Paraty, from boat trips to excursions to waterfalls. As the historical centre of the town is pedestrianised, it is safe to wander around, although the ancient cobbles wouldn't be the ideal surface for pushchairs to navigate. There's a shop for groceries and supplies on the corner about 20m away, and bigger ones 500m away; the fruit market and pharmacies are 300m distant.
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Families are usually housed in the spacious 2-storey Guest House Suite, which is slightly separate from the main house and has its own small kitchen/living room. It has a kingsized bed, single bed, and space for an extra bed so can sleep 4. It is best accessed by the back door, which takes one out to the lane leading down to the sea. The Main Suite can also sleep 4 in a kingsize bed, single bed and extra bed.
On request - note that the 'sitter is unlikely to speak much (if any) English.
A complimentary basket of toiletries for babies and toddlers is provided on arrival. If you're staying more than 2 nights, you are also given a complimentary bowl of tropical fruit.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
The plunge pool is unfenced, the local streets flood at high tide when there's a full moon (though temporary bridges and ramps are provided), and Rua Fresca where cars are parked is close to the water's edge so keep an eye on small ones, and of course if you're taking a boat trip. Sometimes mozzies appear but plug-in repellent is provided. Note that the water is unsafe to drink from the tap, a water dispenser is provided on the patio.