The elegant town of Ermoupolis, easy access and some delightful coves in the north make the Cyclades' capital island worth a visit.
Ermoupolis
This little island boasts the capital town of the Cyclades, once Greece’s largest port. But Ermoupolis is more than just a commercial hub: it is a cascade of white and ochre houses and domed churches spilling down the twin hills – one Orthodox, one Catholic – to a seafront lined with classy shops, tavernas and grand civic buildings. The main square, with its huge town hall, is probably the best-preserved Neoclassical townscape in Greece. There are lots of elegant ship-owners' houses, now converted into traditional guesthouses, the smartest of which is the Syrou Melathron. Of the many churches, Agios Nikolaos o Ploutos ('the rich') is the most impressive, while in the Church of the Assumption you can see an original icon by El Greco.
Ano Syros
The predominantly Catholic hill of Ano Syros has the most picturesque spots, with a 16th century Cappuccin monastery, fortress walls and views to rival any in the Cyclades. Below this, the close-packed houses and painted alleys provide endless opportunities for photographers, as well as a couple of tavernas for the hungry.
Bouzouki Music
Syros is probably the best place outside Athens for live bouzouki music , being the birthplace of Markos Vamvakaris, pioneer of rembetiko ('Greek blues'). Try the Arhontariki on a Friday or Saturday evening, or the more authentic Lili, whose owner will cook you food and then serenade you with his bouzouki.
Beaches
The best beaches - Grammata and Varvarousa - are in the northwest, accessible on foot, or by boat from the fishing village of Kini - but worth every effort. The southwest coast has wider, sandier and more popular beaches such as Galissas and Agathopes. At Galissas you will find windsurfers and sailboats for hire in summer.