“Two clusters of self-catering apartments for 2-6, offering tip-top design and comfort in the heart of Valencia’s magical old city”
Step from the street into the sky-blue-ceilinged entrance hall of the marvellous Caballeros building, walk up the white marble stairs, and you know you’re in for something special. Each of its 4 apartments enjoys high ceilings, a double bedroom, a comfy sitting area with sofabeds for 1 or 2 additional guests, and a compact but well-equipped kitchen. The super bathrooms come with Agua de Loewe toiletries, and a power shower, tub or both. We loved the parquet floors, the contemporary lighting, the splashes of red, yellow or turquoise, and the floor-to-ceiling period windows and shutters. All have small balconies, and Caballeros III has private use of a roof terrace accessed via the communal stairway. The largest of the quartet, Caballeros Atico, sits at the top of the building and is spread over 2 storeys; it opens straight onto a roof terrace with loungers and a fantastic view of the cathedral.
The Micalet building has 3 apartments - 2 with 2 double bedrooms and another, Micalet Atico, with 3. We stayed in the latter, a marble-floored penthouse with a roof terrace - lovely for a late-night drink, and there’s even a barbecue if you fancy cooking dinner out there. The living rooms in all 3 apartments are sumptuous, with original modern art, designer light fittings and plenty of space, and the bedrooms have top-notch linen and their own ensuites with the same spoiling toiletries as Caballeros (though most are small and have showers only). Micalet I and Micalet Atico are split-level, and we particularly liked their Gaudí-inspired staircases (the owners have a metalwork company). It's worth noting that Micalet I and II are the only apartments without outside space.
All apartments have washing machines and dryers, irons and ironing boards, hairdryers, flat-screen TVs and air conditioning. For a full description of each apartment, see Rates.
The apartments have ovens, 2- or 4-ring ceramic hobs, fridge-freezers, microwaves and dishwashers, plus tables that seat 4 or more in the kitchen or main living room. Basics such as tea, coffee, sugar and drinking water are provided, but otherwise you’ll need to fend for yourself - there are plenty of markets and grocery stores nearby, along with bakeries selling fresh croissants and bread (handy for easy breakfasts).
For lunch, be sure to head out for paella or escaret (a typical local dish composed of salt cod, red peppers, garlic and olive oil) - a great-value place near the apartments is La Cigrona at Calle Serranos 22. The place where locals in the know go to eat authentic paella is El Raco de la Paella at Calle Mosen Rausell 17, in the Campanar district (you’ll need to get a cab as it’s well off the tourist track). Housed in an old ceramic-tiled room, it serves the real deal - paella with snails and rabbit, cooked on an open fire. For cracking sardinas a la plancha (grilled sardines) try Tasca Angel, next to the Mercado Central. There are also some great eateries within the market itself, including Central Bar.
For dinner, there’s a huge choice. We particularly enjoyed Canalla Bistro on Calle Maestro Serrano, which is owned by Ricard Camarena, one of Valencia’s rising culinary stars. The setting is informal and you eat a series of beautifully presented little plates. By the way, paella is a lunch dish, so don’t expect to find it at supper time except in tourist places.
Valencia is a child-friendly city built on the flat with plenty to see and do. Get a Valencia Family Card for free travel and museum entry, plus discounts elsewhere.
The well-equipped apartments make flexible bases for families, come in 1, 2 and 3-bedroom configurations and are in the heart of the old city, close to shopping and sites.
The 1-bedroom Caballeros apartments have sofabeds (free of charge) for additional guests and so sleep up to 3; Caballeros Atico has 2 sofabeds and can accommodate 4. Larger families should book one of the Micalet apartments, which sleep 4-6 in 2-3 bedrooms. Note that all bedrooms are doubles, and most bathrooms have showers only. Baby cots (additional charge) can be provided in all apartments.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
The apartments have everything you need to cook, including microwaves for heating up baby food.
All apartments are on the first floor or higher, but there's a lift for buggies. Some apartments have internal steps, and the staircase in Caballeros Atico is steep.