21212

Royal Terrace, Edinburgh, United Kingdom Book from Book from £115 per night

Elegant luxury and magical food with a refreshing smattering of madcap fun, in the classy heart of Georgian Edinburgh
The name, the lipstick-red reception desk, and the '60s Doctor Who-style lettering on the front of this magnificent 4-storey Georgian townhouse: all hints that you’re not in just another plush (but staid) Edinburgh hotel. Chef Paul Kitching, who owns and runs 21212 with his partner Katie, has a mischievous sense of fun, which infuses both his rooms and restaurant. Conformist eyebrows may furrow, but the personal and friendly service, comfy contemporary décor and ground-breaking food are hard to fault.

The 4 stylish suites, with their fabulous bed linen, state-of-the-art bathrooms and dreamy views over the city rooftops, are amazing. The draw for most, however, is Paul’s flair in the kitchen, which won him a Michelin star within 8 months of opening. It’s in the hotel’s opulent restaurant that you’ll learn the significance of the name: there are just 2 starters, 1 soup, 2 mains, 1 cheese plate and 2 desserts. Simplicity replaces the clutter of the à la carte. But simplicity doesn’t mean boring - with no 2 mouthfuls the same, the taste storm has just begun.

Highs

  • One of the country’s most exciting chefs/restaurants
  • The location: at the end of the world’s longest, and arguably most handsome, Georgian crescent, and bang in the centre of Edinburgh’s New Town
  • The opulent décor is deliciously over the top
  • The views. On a fine day you can even see the Firth of Forth from 2 of the suites
  • For non-parents, the fact that it's mainly child-free could be a plus

Lows

  • The restaurant is closed Sunday-Tuesday, and it would be such a shame to have to miss out on the incredible food
  • The toast from factory-made sliced bread at breakfast was a bit of a comedown after the previous evening’s culinary fireworks, but the rest of breakfast was lovely
  • Parking nearby is all metred, though it’s free overnight and all weekend
  • No lift and lots of stairs

Best time to go

Edinburgh is fascinating at any time of year. Come in August for thespian thrills; or avoid the crowds and explore the city’s historic streets, shops and restaurants the rest of the year. In December the lure is Edinburgh’s Christmas markets, and on New Year’s Eve its lively Hogmanay celebrations. 21212 is closed for a week in summer and a week in winter, but the dates each year.

Our top tips

Escape the crowds with a walk along the River Almond from the pretty village of Cramond (10km from the hotel). At low tide - check tide times first - you can walk out to Cramond Island in the Firth of Forth.

Great for...

City Style
Foodie
Honeymoon
  • Restaurant with Rooms
  • 4
  • Restaurant (open Wed-Sat)
  • Over 5s only, not ideal for kids
  • Closed: 6 Jan 2019 - 14 Jan 2019
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room:

Rooms

There are just 4 bedrooms, all generously sized and split over the 2nd and 3rd floors of the house. The numbering though, is predictably eccentric: instead of being numbered 1-4, like the hotel’s moniker they all contain 1s and 2s. Colours tend to be naturals that remind you of foods (of course) like mustard, sage, cream and coffee, and you’ll spot all the big designers from Osborne & Little to Sahco Hesslein, Romo and Designers Guild.

As in the rest of the house, the suites’ Georgian features and proportions provide a stunning backdrop for contemporary lighting and furnishings. There’s plenty of space to mooch, sleep, read or just gaze out over beautiful Edinburgh; on a fine day you can even see the Firth of Forth from bedrooms 1 and 21. Suites at the back (2 and 12) have wonderful views over the huge gardens leading up into woods, plus New-York style shutters to keep the place cosy on winter nights. We stayed in #12, and slept brilliantly as the linen was crisp and luxurious, the bed huge.

All suites have plasma TVs, free WiFi, good storage space and a walk-in shower or wet room. #12 and 1, on the 2nd floor, also have vast egg-shaped island baths that are made of stone and lit by mounted LED lights - ideal for long, indulgent soaks.

There are nice extra touches, too, like bathrobes, Elemis goodies and a decanter of sloe gin to soothe you after a hectic day at the Festival or tramping round the sights. You can ring down for complimentary tea or coffee whenever you like.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • Hairdryer
  • Ipod dock
  • Iron
  • Phone
  • Safe box
  • Satellite TV
  • Tea & coffee (on request)
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

Be prepared for a gastronomic adventure. Having trained with some of the UK’s best chefs, including Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park, Paul’s technical skills are indisputable. His genius, though, is that he throws away the recipe books and creates from scratch - it starts with sketches on a Sunday morning, and these evolve into the week’s dishes. They’re assembled piece by piece by a team of chefs who work with the precision of surgeons performing an operation in the open kitchen - watch it all while you wait.

The thrill, as an eater, is that every mouthful reveals more intriguing flavours and textures. Expect some unusual, multi-layered combos, like venison, chorizo, sultanas, mustard and carrots. But they work. As the concoction of ingredients is different every week, no one will ever again eat what I ate (sadly, as it was fab!). My main was Sicilian-style 'pink trout', composed of trout with artichokes, shimezi and shitake mushrooms, giant pasta shells, almonds and chickpeas, warm coleslaw, leek, spring onion, kidney beans, balsamic and thyme yeast cream, as well as dried courgettes, argen oil and grated feta cheese. The pudding was a divine apricot and coffee tiramisu concoction. It was all inspired and inspiring.

After the culinary drama of dinner, breakfast seemed somewhat humdrum. But it was delicious and tastefully presented nonetheless - we had fried eggs sprinkled with cubes of ham and chive oil. The meal is served in the POD (Paul’s Own Dining), a circular cream leather banquette around a pink marble table adjoining the drawing room.

If you’re staying on a night when the restaurant is closed (Sun-Tue), there are plenty of options for eating out. The other jewel in Edinburgh’s culinary crown is Restaurant Martin Wishart, on Leith’s upwardly mobile waterfront (there’s a cheaper brasserie, too). Also well worth trying are Ondine, a seafood restaurant perched above the Royal Mile, and Mark Greenaway at 12 Picardy Place.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Vegetarian menu
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • In August, Edinburgh throbs to the sounds of its famous Festival, a theatrical extravaganza. Book well in advance for a stay during this month

  • Catch your breath after walking up to Arthur’s Seat - then have it taken away again by the views

  • Check out the palace of Holyrood House, the Royal family’s Edinburgh residence, including its abbey and the Queen's Gallery, which hosts visiting exhibitions from the Royal collections

  • Immerse yourself in the medieval Old Town and wander along the Royal Mile, the capital’s most historic street

  • Stroll up Calton Hill, behind the hotel, and enjoy views out to the Firth of Forth

  • Treat yourself to a spot of retail therapy on Prince’s Street

  • Tickle your tastebuds with a visit to Edinburgh’s famous farmers' market on Castle Terrace on Saturday mornings

  • Pop up to Edinburgh Castle, which lords it over the city. Hear the One o’Clock Gun booming from the battlements, admire the Scottish Crown Jewels, and visit the National War Museum of Scotland

  • Get inspired by the old masters at the National Galleries of Scotland

  • Visit the National Museum of Scotland and see ancient Egyptian artefacts to modern-day innovations

  • Gen up on your plant species at the Royal Botanic Gardens, and marvel at its Victorian Palm House

  • There are great golf courses a short drive away

  • Come in December for the Christmas markets, or on New Year’s Eve for the Hogmanay shindig, including a massive street party on Prince’s Street

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Festivals
  • Golf
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Nightlife
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Shopping / markets

Kids

21212 does not accept children under 5, and has no extra beds or baby cots. It's really an adults-only place.

Kid Friendly:

Location

21212 is situated in the centre of Edinburgh in Scotland, a 10-minute walk from Waverley Station, Prince's Street and the main shopping areas, and 5 minutes from the Edinburgh Playhouse.

By Air
Fly into Edinburgh Airport, which is served by many domestic and international airlines. Alternatively, fly to Glasgow and drive here (1.5 hours). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
A taxi costs approx £15 from Edinburgh and £70 from Glasgow (prices correct in 2011). Alternatively you can hire a car, take the Edinburgh Shuttle (a door-to-door shared taxi service which is cheaper), or take a bus into the centre and walk to the hotel.

By Train
Edinburgh’s Waverley station is a mainline station, reachable from London and Birmingham in 4.5 hours, Glasgow in 45 minutes and York in just over 2 hours. 21212 is a short taxi ride away.

By Car
Edinburgh is a great city to explore on foot so there’s no need to bring a car. But if you want to hire one, see our car rental recommendations. There is no private car park at 21212 so you'd need to leave your car in a city car park, or on the metred spaces opposite the hotel (free in the evenings and at weekends).

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to the UK and getting around

Airports:

  • Edinburgh 17.0 km EDI
  • Glasgow 94.0 km GLA

Other:

  • Beach 12.0 km
  • Shops 0.4 km
  • Restaurant 0.4 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
8/10
Service
8/10
Value
9/10
Overall

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