“A sublime hotel on Luxor’s west bank with colourful architecture, flourishing gardens, stately rooms and an enormous pool”
All of the rooms at Al Moudira are gorgeous. Some are bigger than others, though it’s worth knowing that the smallest are enormous. Having said as much, the décor in the suites is nothing short of jaw-dropping - perhaps Pharaonic murals, vaulted ceilings or a raised platform in the middle of the room where cushions encircle a fountain.
All rooms are accessed from small communal courtyards, which give a sense of privacy. You enter through wooden doors that look ancient. Inside, it’s not merely the size of your room that attracts your attention, but the height of your towering ceiling. You’ll find gorgeous floor tiles, stunning beds, flamboyant arches, shuttered windows, muralled walls, the odd pillar. There’s usually a sitting area in one of the corners (sofa and armchairs), then a large armoire to stash away your worldly goods. Beds are dressed in fine Egyptian linen and usually encased in a mosquito net. Several suites have private terraces. Design influences come from across the world, a mix of Mediterranean colours and Arabic architectural styles, reflecting the tastes of owner Zeina Aboukheir, a photographer and jewellery designer who has lived in Lebanon and Tuscany (among other places).
Finally, bathrooms. It’s no great surprise to discover that these tend to be equally vast, with good showers standing above enormous baths. Quite a few have domed ceilings that are embedded with coloured glass. All come with waffled bathrobes.
You eat breakfast in the main courtyard. Everything is brought to your table: fabulous pancakes, plates of fresh fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, baskets of home-baked patisseries (croissants, pains au chocolat). There are eggs if you want them, too.
Lunch can be eaten here or down on the pool terrace, a lovely spot to scoff a plate of spaghetti. You can have anything from simple dishes like croque-monsieur or smoked salmon to a 3-course feast, perhaps fresh tomato salads, filet de boeuf, date tart. There are hamburgers, pizzas, bowls of pasta, calamari served with tartare sauce.
Dinner is eaten in the courtyard. You stop for drinks in the sitting-room bar, where a little jazz plays sweetly, then order from an à la carte menu, perhaps onion tart, leg of lamb, crème caramel. Although we'd read reports of mediocre cuisine, our experience was very positive - some of the best food we tasted in Egypt, in fact - so give it a try.
You could spend a week in Luxor and not see everything, so do some research, then prioritise according to the time you have. The hotel can arranged guided tours. The highlights are:
Children are welcome and all the rooms are big enough to accommodate an extra bed, though family suites are available if you need the space. Young children will need supervision around the swimming pool. Babysitting can be arranged.
Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
Extra Beds Available
Baby-sitting can usually be arranged with enough notice