You could be forgiven for wondering where the Serra da Estrela is - it's not explored by many tourists, not even the Portuguese. But this vast National Park's rugged beauty - 2,000-metre limestone peaks, mossy waterfalls, granite caves, crystalline river pools - make it amply worth the detour inland. It's in Portugal's central highlands, 300km north of Lisbon, 175km south of Porto, and the rivers Mondego, Zezere and Alva all have their source here.
Constructed from old shepherd's cottages in 3 lawned tiers on the side of a terraced hill overlooking a swimming pool and courtyard, the hotel is perched above the village of Lapa dos Dinheiros ('Treasure Cave'), with fabulous views across the valleys and peaks. Inside you'll find stylish and bright bedrooms - some with jacuzzi tubs, walls of rough stone and smooth whitewash, neutral modern colours. And after a day of trekking, cycling, village touring or river swimming, the high-end spa with its sauna and steam bath will leave you in the pink. For those seeking contemporary comfort and delicious food in an unspoilt mountain retreat, this is a perfect find.
Highs
- The stylish interiors are an unexpected find in such a rustic and remote location
- Cosy living rooms (firelit in winter, beautifully cool in summer) showcase local sculptures and paintings
- The sleek dining room and sunny poolside terrace offer the best in regional and home-grown cuisine
- 100,000 hectares of National Park on your doorstep
- The heavenly spa provides all you need to fully detox and decompress
- A great place to escape with a loved one, with friends, or with the family: several suites sleep 4, or check out their separate village houses
Lows
- Access is tricky: from the A1 at Coimbra it's all country roads, which get narrower as you go up, especially when you reach the village
- We found it slightly rabbit-warreny in its layout - necessitated by its village setting on terraced hillsides
- It can be cold and misty up here at 750m altitude (though rarely in midsummer)
Best time to go
If you're planning to walk, spring or autumn is the best time of year to be here. But the village's soaring elevation ensures it remains cool enough for hiking to be enjoyable in summer, too. And don't forget that you're just a 30-minute drive from Portugal's most popular ski resort: most years you can expect heavy snowfalls in both February and March.
Our top tips
After a day of relaxation we recommend taking a walk to the river beach “Praia fluvial Lapa dos Dinheiros” (20min walk) in the middle of the Serra da Estrela. Here you can take a dip in the refreshing water which is also a blue flag beach and a little café for some snacks.
- Boutique Hotel
- 15 rooms
- Restaurant open daily
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pools
- Spa
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
- Library
Rooms
The 8 suites and 7 double bedrooms are arranged on 3 levels beside and above the swimming pool. Most of these have kingsize or twin beds and a serene, minimalistic feel with natural wood tones. The suites have a sitting area to sit and relax whilst maybe listening to some music on the in-room Bluetooth speaker. All have spectacular views of the mountains thanks to the big glass panels of their exterior doors.
The village rooms are the lowest two doubles, located in the shepherd house. These rooms feel warm, cozy and luxurious – one even has its own jacuzzi tub.
Bathrooms are decorated in a modern and minimalistic design with glossy tiles adding a sleek appearance and a rainfall shower. You'll find a hairdryer, bathrobes, slippers, and a trayful of natural bath products sourced in Sicily; the jacuzzi tubs are perfect for a post-trek soak.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Bathrobes
- Central heating
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots available
- DVD player
- Fireplace
- Hairdryer
- Minibar
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
Breakfast is served in a fab sleek dining room designed in a contemporary style with hints of classic 50’s retro modern pieces. You're welcome to come down any time up to 1pm, in which case it could easily become brunch. The feast includes a selection of cereals, excellent bread, a fruit salad, home-baked cakes, local honey, freshly-squeezed orange juice, ham, an excellent selection of tasty Beiras cheeses and natural yoghurt.
Light meals are available during the day, either inside or outside by the pool: expect fish salads, pizza, hamburgers, vegetable omelettes and pies.
Dinner is a 5-course event that changes daily, showcasing the seasonal products and typical flavours of the Serra da Estrela region, and can be paired with wine.
If you want to eat out you will need to drive to Seia, 7km away, where most restaurants are of the rustic-regional sort: lots of lamb and smoked pork sausages as well as local sheep's cheese.
Features include:
- Bar
- Dinner by arrangement
- Kids' meals
- Lunch by arrangement
- Restaurant
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- The Beiras National Park has a unique landscape of dramatic glacial valleys (geologists will be in their element), powerful waterfalls, primitive forest of black oaks and chestnut trees, and granite outcrops
- Ask staff about hikes - guided or unguided - through pine and deciduous woods to waterfalls, caves and summits; particularly lovely in spring and autumn.
- Mountain biking can also be arranged; the hotel has some bikes you can borrow (book in advance)
- The caves of Moura and Suma are worth visiting; you can try your hand at abseiling, or (in winter) go skiing at Portugal's only resort
- In summer, swim at one of the 8 fluvial beaches near the village: we loved the wonderfully invigorating pure mountain water
- Discover the stunning villages of Liñhares and Piódão, and the crumbling castles which dot the landscape
- Seia (7km) has a Park Visitor Centre, a Toy Museum and a Bread Museum, Gouveia a zoo, Belmonte a museum recalling the rich Jewish heritage and the local woollen industry
- Relax around Lapa's 11x4m swimming pool, or check out the steam room, gym, and sauna. You can book a massage too
- If rain interferes with your plans, there's a well-stocked library and a cinema room to hole up in
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Mountain biking
- Museums / galleries
- Plantlife / flora
- Swimming
- Trekking
Kids
Children are greeted with open arms at Casas da Lapa. Owners Nuno and Maria Manuel have a family of their own and have a genuinely caring attitude towards younger visitors. It is a long drive from the airport, but once you get here there is plenty to do for all the family and you won't have to bring much with you.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
The 2 Superior Rooms and Suites 1, 2, 3 and 6 are suitable for 2 adults and 1-2 children. Cots are free but extra beds carry a charge.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Babysitting:
Babysitting available, arrange in advance.
Baby equipment:
- Highchair
- Pram or pushchair to borrow
- Baby bedding
- Baby bath
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
Food is available on request, with special mealtimes for kids and half portions of adult mains on offer for dinner There is a small kitchenette with microwave and blender and baby bottles can be warmed.
Kids Activities on site:
- Kids DVDs
- Swimming pool
- Cinema room
Kids Activities nearby:
- Historical towns to visit
- River swimming
- Skiing and snowboarding in the winter
- Cycling
- Maria Manuel can recommend child-friendly walks
- Toy museum in Seia
- Zoo in Gouveia
Families Should Know:
The closest shop for nappies etc is a 10-minute drive away in Seia. Watch out for steep stone stairs and an unfenced pool.
Distances:
- Airport: 2 hours
- Hospital: 15 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Casas da Lapa is in the small village of Lapa dos Dinheiros, on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. The nearest big town, Seia, is 7km away.
By Air
Fly to Porto (or Oporto, 175km, 2+ hours' drive) or Lisbon (300km, 4 hours' drive); the latter is further, but has more flights. Both driving routes are very scenic; you don't want to rush, or drive at night. It is also possible to fly into Madrid in Spain, and drive via Salamanca (perhaps overnighting there).
From the Airport
You'll need to hire a car as the village is remote, with no public transport links.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Oporto 175.0 km OPO
- Lisbon Portela 150.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 150.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape