Tucked into the winding alleys of Paharsar, a tiny hamlet near Bharatpur, sits the glorious Chandra Mahal, a 200-year-old haveli that was once home to the Maharaja of Bharatpur. Inside its high limestone walls lie peacock-filled gardens and a magnificent turquoise pool, with alluring rooms and impeccable service to boot. There are fascinating daily village walks, camel-cart rides for the adventurous, and the Taj Mahal is an easy day-trip away. And after a day of exploration, what could be better than retreating to your private terrace and hot tub, for a moonlight-dappled dip?
Highs
- The setting in a sleepy traditional village, giving you a rare glimpse into rural Indian life
- Incredible meals in the Peharsi Andaaz restaurant - their Rajasthani thali blew us away
- A massive pool and immaculate gardens - perfect for playing croquet or sitting in the shade with a good book
- Just off the Jaipur-Agra expressway, so excursions to the magnificent Taj Mahal, Agra or Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary are a cinch
- Spacious rooms decorated with antique furniture - splurge on a Suite for an outdoor hot tub
Lows
- The village is an 'authentic' one - so expect some litter, ambient noise and monkeys visiting your balcony
- Off the beaten track (a high for me!) - so make sure your driver knows exactly where to bring you
- It’s lucky the food is fantastic, because there are no other restaurants nearby
- Beyond relaxation and day trips, there isn’t heaps to do; 2-3 nights here would be ideal
- Since our visit, we've heard that the hotel could do with one or two maintenance touch ups
Best time to go
Our top tips
- Boutique Guesthouse
- 11 rooms
- Restaurant
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
The 11 rooms are hidden all over the haveli, many leading onto a central courtyard where a fountain overflows into colourful marigolds from the garden. Decor is traditional Rajasthani in style, with beautiful antique furniture, vintage photographs, and ornate stonework throughout.
Heritage Rooms are simple but comfortable, some with terraces. Room 106 has a tiny extra cubby space with a single bed for parties of 3 (though no separating door). The top-floor Suites are simply palatial and definitely worth the splurge. Each has a private alfresco hot tub filled upon request, and 3 terraces with different views. Note bathrooms throughout are shower only.
Features include:
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
Meals in the poolside Peharsi Andaaz restaurant are an absolute delight, with the focus on simple regional recipes using seasonal produce from the surrounding fields. Food is good value, unpretentious and hearty - and refreshingly, never heavy or greasy. We asked for the chef’s recommendations, and were presented with plate after plate of simply extraordinary food - malai kofta with cashew nut and rosewater puree, a Rajasthani Thali with a seemingly endless selection of tiny vegetable dishes; and a sweet and salty nimboo pani (fresh lime and soda) to wash it down.
Breakfast (included) is simpler, but still tasty. You choose Indian or continental fare (poori baji or idli if you opt for the former, eggs and porridge for the latter) with coffee or masala chai. During busy seasons, breakfast is served as a buffet; during quieter seasons it is served a la carte at your table.
Features include:
- Restaurant
- Room service
Activities
- Rise early for a guided walk around the village: see buffalos being washed, chapatis being handmade, sarees being hung up to dry - all the sights and sounds of a tiny village waking up
- Day trip to the mind-blowing Taj Mahal, the evocative red sandstone palaces of Fatehpur Sikri on the way to Agra, and Agra's fort and bazaars
- Closer to home, visit the amazingly preserved Deegh Palace near Bharatpur, or the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary (one of the best in India), home to countless species of cranes, pelicans, and eagles
- Relax in the hotel gardens and swim, play croquet or badminton. During high season, there are live folk-music concerts by the pool
- Upon request, Rajkumar (the village camel) can take you for a ride through the fields on his cart!
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Badminton
- Birdwatching
- Croquet
- Museums / galleries
- Private guided tours
- Traditional cultures
- Wildlife
Kids
Children of all ages are welcome at Chandra Mahal. There's a wide-open garden area for kids to play, and the pool has a shallow end. The local villagers are extremely welcoming to children, who will be fascinated by their culture. Note, there are no baby cots or baths. Kids under 11 stay for free when sharing their parents' bed.
Best for:
Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
All rooms can fit 1 rollaway bed, for a maximum occupancy of 3. Heritage Room 106 has a tiny extra single bed tucked away from the main bedroom area.
Kids Activities on site:
Families Should Know:
The pool is not fenced
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Chandra Mahal is 25km from the small town of Bharatpur in Rajasthan. It's 1.5 hours west of Agra (80km), and 3-4 hours drive from Jaipur (160km) along the Jaipur-Agra expressway.
By Air:
Agra (80km) is served by domestic flights from Delhi Indira Ghandi International (a major international hub, 244km away). Alternatively fly into Jaipur (160km) and come overland.
By Rail:
Bharatpur is on the main railway between Delhi and Mumbai (Bombay), with regular connections to Mathura, Sawai Madhopur and Kota. It's also connected by rail to Agra.
By Road:
If touring northern India by road, we recommend hiring a car with driver - our Tailormade Tour Operator can arrange this for you.
Airports:
- Agra 80.0 km AGR
- Jaipur 160.0 km JAI
Other:
- Beach 900.0 km
- Shops 0.5 km
- Restaurant 25.0 km