“Simple hideaway high on the hill above Setubal, with quirky self-catering accommodation and stunning views out to sea”
The main house holds an apartment, a suite and a small double room, all with private entrances, while in the garden you'll find 3 more retreats: a windmill, a cabin and a huge suite tucked under the terrace. Most have a kitchen or cooking corner so you can self-cater with ease.
Our favourite was the Moinho do Luar (aka the windmill) which dates to 1802. Here you can lie in bed and gaze out through French windows on the ocean below - great for a special occasion.
We also loved the private Casinha, a small wooden cabin tucked into a lush corner of the garden. Throw open the glass doors and step into a small but colourful world: vibrant tiles, a day bed in the sitting room and an uncluttered bedroom. Also charming is the Refuge, which has a whole wall of glass, opening onto a private terrace.
The Blue Suite is connected to the main house, but has a private entrance. You get a bedroom and a sitting room, plus a bougainvillea-shaded terrace. Expect stripped wood floors, cast-iron daybeds, white walls to soak up the light, dining tables inside and out. The White Room, also connected to the main house, is very similar to the suites, but is just a little smaller.
Since our visit the 2-bedroom Casa do Mar ao Luar apartment has been added, it sounds spacious and homely (with its own kitchen) so we can't wait to stop by and road test it soon.
All rooms except the White Room have kitchenettes with a couple of hobs, a fridge and a microwave, so you can prepare picnic lunches or whip up pasta and soups. If you wanted to cook dinner you could, but most people retreat from the pool for a spot of home-made lunch, then head down to town for a bite in the evening. For traditional fare we like Cozimha de Abade, while Fernando’s does tasty fish and seafood. Equally, you could head west along the peninsular to find good fish restaurants at most of the beaches.
As the White Room has no kitchen, breakfast is either served on its terrace in good weather or in the main house if it’s raining. For all the other rooms, breakfast is left in your fridge the night before and in the morning small loaves of freshly-baked bread are delivered to the front door. You’ll get milk and juice, cheese and ham, jam and bread. There’s coffee and tea in each kitchen, too.
This is a quiet rustic property where families are welcome, but not in great numbers as there are only two family apartments. We think it is not a great place for toddlers but it’s quite well suited to older children who will love the sandy beaches and boat rides nearby, but apart from the pool, there’s not too much to occupy them on site. The combination of self-catering facilities and nearby restaurants makes life here with children a lot more flexible.
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)
The Refuge apartment is best for families with a baby, whereas Casa do Mar ao Luar is great for larger families, with 2 bedrooms and space for extra beds.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
The (unheated) swimming pool is unfenced and has a steep drop beside it. There are a few dogs on the neighbouring property. You will need a car to get about although local taxis are not expensive