Tolox is a sleepy mountain white village, perched midway between Ronda and Malaga, which had a brief moment of glory when its spa became the place to take the waters. A narrow road cuts past a number of elegant turn-of-the-century buildings, and the springs, before looping steeply up to the white and ochre façade of this cheerful hilltop hotel. From here there are soaring views out across terraced groves of olives and almonds to the distant, glittering Mediterranean.
This is a hotel with a light heart and one where you instinctively wind down. Stepping inside to a bright, colour-washed reception you’ll be greeted by one of the hotel’s young and relaxed staff. Upstairs, 18 simple, spacious bedrooms grab a slice of that amazing mountain panorama. Downstairs is a surprisingly classy restaurant, with good wines and local meats; and a sitting room with groovy Daliesque bar stools, a roaring fireplace (in low season), and a pool table. Outside: a panoramic swimming pool with loungers, leafy lawned gardens, and a micro-spa with hot tub, sauna and deck chairs overlooking the gorge. A perfect spot to wind down after a day's hiking among pine forests, or plunging into the river pools of the Caballos valley.
Highs
- Simply amazing location: a high perch on the eastern flank of the Sierra de las Nieves National Park (a Unesco Biosphere Reserve), just an hour's drive from Malaga
- Klara, Steffi and Afaf are easy, affable hosts; the atmosphere is very relaxed
- The walking, straight out from the hotel, is simply fabulous. Don’t forget your boots and a day pack
- The food here is streets ahead of the kind you would normally expect in a hotel of this category and location
- We loved the silence, the views and the sounds of nature: birdsong, wind in the pines, and an occasional renegade frog
Lows
- The staff at Híjar are multi-taskers. You may occasionally have to go in search of a receptionist or a bar person
- You need a car to get here; but most likely will use it very little
- Nervous drivers may find the road up to the hotel a little hair-raising
- Bedrooms and (especiallly) bathrooms are on the simple side, but perfectly comfy
Best time to go
Spring (mid April - mid June) and autumn (Sept-Oct) are the best times for walking: the former has river pools and pink oleander bushes, the latter has wild mushrooms and cosy fireside evenings. Andalucian summers are famously hot, yet because of Hijar’s elevation (650m) it never gets unbearable. And because the hotel is properly heated and insulated, this is a great place to stay during the winter months, too.
Our top tips
If you like wild swimming, you'll love the trail up the Caballos river valley to the Charco de la Virgen (an hour each way). The trail, which is lined with pink oleanders in May-June, starts from the old spa building at Fuente Amargosa, 1km below the hotel. Or if that sounds too far, there are pools just 10-20 mins along the path: one comes after crossing the second footbridge, another shortly after joining the jeep track. And there's a smaller (secret) pool up a side valley between the two: a tiny path leads there from the jeep track junction.
- Boutique Hotel
- 18 rooms
- Restaurant
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- Cookery classes
Rooms
The 18 bedrooms, mostly up on the first floor, are simple and spacious: not the height of boutique chic, but perfectly comfy. It's the mountain views which are the star: we loved throwing open the balcony shutters and gazing up to wooded mountains bathed in the pinks of dawn.
Most are classified as Standard Rooms: a decent size for two, and available as twins or doubles. If coming for longer, or with a child, the generous Junior Suites measure over 30 sq.m., with a sitting area (sofabed) and a large bathroom with tub and twin sinks. Suites come with separate sitting areas: the one tucked away in the tower would be our top choice if it's free.
White walls have a welcome splash of colour from the susani (Turkish wall hangings) above the bed. Bright Moroccan kilims soften the ubiquitous quarry-tiled floors, while Mexican wooden cabinets hide the TV and minibar. Some rooms come with a rustic writing table or secretaire; all have louvred wardrobes with masses of space. There are bedside spotlights, A/C units and Casablanca fans, although Hijar’s high mountain perch means you barely need them. Beds come with soft duvets and forgiving mattresses: we slept so well we nearly missed our flight home!
Large but functional bathrooms are done out in white ceramic tiles with bathtubs and overhead showers (just 2 rooms have shower only).
Features include:
- Fan
- In-room treatments available
- Minibar
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
The dining room is decorated in warm ochres and whites, with a moody fado-esque soundtrack when we visited. Outside, there's a shady wooden deck for warmer evenings (bring a sweater); the views are as good as the food.
Perched as you are between sea and mountain, it's no surprise that the menu features produce from both - including gilt-head bream, octopus and tuna in the seafood section, and roast lamb, beef fillet and (excellent) pork 'wraps' among the meats. Garnishes and sauces make the most of local mushrooms, peppers and even seaweed, while Moorish influences include couscous, chickpeas and raisins.
Breakfast is laid-up buffet style in the dining room, though you're welcome to drift out to the deck when the weather permits. You'll find cold cuts, soft and hard cheese, croissants and cakes, muesli and yoghurts, some fresh fruit, and a selection of jams. There's freshly squeezed orange juice and superb espresso coffee, served à volonté.
Features include:
- Bar
- Restaurant
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Explore the spectacular Sierra de las Nieves on foot, or even mountain bike: the hotel sells maps with the best local trails, and can arrange a guide for groups of 6 or more
- Go horse riding through the forest to verdant llanos (pastures) - an unforgettable experience
- Afterwards, book the hotel's micro-spa for the evening: a private sauna and a hot tub with a view!
- Hunt for wild mushrooms on the surrounding hillsides during the autumn months
- It's a good hour's drive to Ronda and its famous pueblos blancos; but nearer to Hijar is under-rated Yunquera, with a maze of whitewashed alleys fanning out from its hilltop church
- Head for the Med: it's an hour to the busy beaches of Marbella or Fuengirola, and there are quieter spots if you know where to look
- Spend a day in the historic heart of Malaga: don't miss the Picasso museum
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Cooking classes
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Language courses
- Mountain biking
- Swimming
- Wine tasting
- Yoga
Kids
This is a great option for outdoorsy families: the hotel has a pool, some suites for 3-4, and kids options at dinner. Children up to 12 years old receive breakfast for free, and cots and extra beds are available on request. And when it comes to the big travel day, you'll be grateful that you're only an hour's drive from Malaga airport.
Best for:
All ages
Family friendly accommodation:
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Baby equipment:
Baby cots available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Cerro de Hijar is near the village of Tolox, midway between Malaga and Ronda (it's an hour's drive from both), at the gateway to the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park.
By Air
Malaga (50km away) is the closest airport; or you could try Gibraltar (115km), Seville (150km), Granada (160km) or Jerez (170km).
From the Airport
You'll almost certainly need a car to get here - see our car rental recommendations. Otherwise you could conceivably take a train into Malaga, hop on a local bus to Tolox, then taxi the last 2km up to the hotel.
Airports:
- Malaga Pablo Ruiz Picasso 50.0 km AGP
- Gibraltar North Front 115.0 km GIB
Other:
- Beach 25.0 km
- Shops 2.5 km
- Restaurant 2.5 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape