You’re in the mountains. Chestnut forest surrounds you. The postman takes October off to join the harvest, and when it’s over the village celebrates: roasted chestnuts, a suckling pig, a band in the square and all-night dancing. Cartajima, population 100, is that rarest of Andalucian finds: an untouched white village, with barely any visitors, and views to die for. Everyone lives off the land: besides chestnuts, there are olives, cherries, almonds, mushrooms and mosto wines. Narrow stepped lanes snake to the church, whose tolling bell is the only sound on a summer afternoon.
Tucked right next to it, the hotel - an amalgam of three village houses - is small, simple and comfortable; surprisingly so, perhaps, for such a tiny hamlet. There are 6 whitewashed bedrooms, a generous sitting room with fireplace and honesty bar, and home-cooked dinners if you ask. The crowning glory is a sun-soaked roof terrace with inspirational views over the wooded Genal valley to the lunar summits of the Sierra de las Nieves. It was this panorama that clinched it for owners Frank and Antje, who escaped the Berlin and Brussels rat races to start a new life here with their young kids. They're part of the village now, running the hotel - it's really more of an overgrown B&B - with a very relaxed informality. Hike out of the village on track through chestnut forests to the river, or jump in the car and head to glittering Ronda; it’s a 25-minute drive. If you want utter peace on the side of an Andalucian mountain, you've just found it.
Highs
- The location - an idyllic village in a pristine setting, in easy striking distance of Ronda
- Fabulous hiking and outdoor activities - you can book customised packages from 3-7 days with guides and route maps
- The roof terrace is a great spot to sit and do very little - plough through a novel, perhaps, or write one
- Each bedroom has a small balcony, so you can drink in the views of village or valley
- Our home-cooked dinner, courtesy of Frank in chef mode, was excellent
Lows
- Service is more B&B than hotel-style - no reception staff or waitresses, for example
- You're up in the mountains and will need a car to explore; some might find the roads here a little hair-raising
- Don't expect a menu: dinner is whatever Frank feels like cooking (though special diets can be catered)
- No pool at the hotel, but there's a village pool up the road (July-Aug only)
- Cartajima is a seriously sleepy place: apart from fiestas (and a little Saturday merriment in the village bar), it's dead quiet
Best time to go
This is a place for all seasons. Winter is cosy and quiet; there's a fireplace, hearty food, and snow on the summits. For walks and wild flowers, come in April or May. The village Romeria festival takes place over Whitsun (usually early June), with 24 hours of merriment and procession.
Even in July-August, Cartajima - at 850m altitude - remains relatively cool. September-October are also great for hiking and general exploration, with the bonus of autumn colours and wild mushrooms in the chestnut woods. Early November sees the big chestnut festival - book ahead for this.
Even in July-August, Cartajima - at 850m altitude - remains relatively cool. September-October are also great for hiking and general exploration, with the bonus of autumn colours and wild mushrooms in the chestnut woods. Early November sees the big chestnut festival - book ahead for this.
Our top tips
Frank and Antje have big plans for the hotel, including a rooftop pool and near-zero energy consumption; but for now, it's a simple affair, to match its village setting. Bring your boots, binoculars and books to read (you can book-swop if you finish them), and prepare to relax into a slower pace of life.
Mid August sees the main village feria, lasting for 4 days and 4 nights. Locals come, as do villagers who still own property here but live down in Malaga to work. Dancing in the street starts at midnight. If you’re looking for total peace, this isn’t the time to come.
Mid August sees the main village feria, lasting for 4 days and 4 nights. Locals come, as do villagers who still own property here but live down in Malaga to work. Dancing in the street starts at midnight. If you’re looking for total peace, this isn’t the time to come.
- Boutique Hotel
- 6 rooms
- Breakfast; dinner on request
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Honesty bar
- Maps for walking
Rooms
Simple whitewashed rooms come with comfy beds (kingsize or twin, as you prefer), rocking armchairs, terracotta-tiled floors, a smattering of art, and some well thumbed novels. Moroccan wrought iron mirror frames and Aladdin lamps lend an exotic touch. They're spacious - all but one can fit a rollaway bed - and remain naturally cool in summer (but there's A/C if you need it).
All rooms have balconies. The three at the front have views that pour over village rooftops and out onto the valley; crack open a bottle of wine and sit out on your little balcony. One at the back of the house looks up at the next-door church (don't worry, the bells stop from 9pm-9am). There are no TVs - you won't want them here - but you do get bathrobes, fluffy towels, coffee making facilities, and a small fridge. A couple of rooms have bathtubs, as well as the showers that are present in every ensuite, and the soaps, gels and shampoos are made from olive oil.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Minibar
- WiFi
Eating
Choose your breakfast the evening before; early birds might also want to ask for a pre 9am slot. Welcome options include Greek yoghurt with honey, fresh fruit salad, Andalucian savouries (cheese, jamon, tomato, olive oil), and a wide variety of teas and infusions.
You'll probably want to pre-book dinner here, as there are no eateries in the village, beside a summer-only tapas joint by the village pool, and (at weekends) a dish or two in the bar below the hotel. It's wise to book dinner when reserving your room.
Frank usually wears the chef's hat, and rustles up a three-course dinner with Med and Middle Eastern influences (he has Israeli roots, and loves Ottolenghi). We enjoyed a starter of fresh burrata with grilled grape kebabs (a novel and very successful idea!); then a huge and delicious dorada (roast bream) in tomato, paprika and caper sauce with risotto; and a melt-in-the-mouth choc mousse to finish off. Those with dietary preferences should let him know in advance.
Outside the village, Juzcar (10-15 mins' drive) has a couple of restaurants, including the American-Spanish run El Bandolero for upscale Span-ternational fare (with chestnut dishes, too) in a garden setting. Otherwise, it's a 25-min drive into Ronda for everything from Italian to Chinese, via atmospheric tapas and buzzy bars.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Dinner by arrangement
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- The countryside here is fabulous. There’s lots of it, not many people in it, and it's beautiful
- Walking tracks connect 7 white villages via the upper Genal valley, including a path to its source in a cave (take a dunk if you're brave). Cicerone's Ronda & Grazalema book has two circular hikes here; another heads upwards to the limestone stacks of Los Riscos
- Bring your binoculars: migrating birds pass through twice a year, and there are resident vultures too, as well as ibex if you're lucky
- You can do a tour of Cartajima in 10 minutes, following stepped lanes between impenetrable white house facades to the occasional viewpoint
- For a change from white villages, head along the mountain road to Juzcar, Andalucia's only blue village, which was famously painted blue for a Disney smurf film - after which the locals, enjoying the attention it brought, voted to keep it that way
- Ronda is a 25-minute drive up the road. You get the famous gorge, great bars, big churches and the oldest bull ring in Spain. Don't miss its Arab Baths, either
- Heading the other way, it's under an hour to the beaches of San Pedro and Estepona; Frank and Antje know some quieter spots to swim, too
- Ask them about wineries, riding stables and pre-historic caves: there are several of each within an hour, all of which need pre-booking
- Or you can book a 3- to 7-day hiking or adventure package; the latter can include canyoning and jeep safaris with a locally resident Finn (Gran Senderista)
- If you don't mind driving, Seville, Jerez and Cadiz are all within two hours: you can't visit Andalucia without seeing at least one of them
- The village swimming pool opens at 4pm every day in July-August; there's a padel and a basketball court, too
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Caves
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Swimming
- Tennis
- Traditional cultures
- Well being
Kids
Frank and Antje welcome families - they have two young children of their own who you may meet in the hotel.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
All rooms except Moorish Courtyard can fit a comfy rollaway bed. If you have two children, it's best to take two adjacent rooms.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Kids Activities on site:
Kids Activities nearby:
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The hotel is set in the small village of Cartajima, which is up in the mountains of Andalucia in southern Spain. It's 18km south of Ronda.
By Air:
Malaga Pablo Ruiz Picasso and Gibraltar are the nearest airports - both 100km (1h30mins) away. Seville and Jerez airports are a little further.
From the airport:
You'll definitely need a car - see our rental tips. We recommend a small-medium car as the lanes in the pueblos blancos are often very narrow.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Malaga Pablo Ruiz Picasso 104.0 km AGP
- Gibraltar North Front 104.0 km GIB
Other:
- Beach 45.0 km
- Shops 5.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km
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